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Witness to History

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Maryland, Washington County, Sharpsburg

As a young tree, the Burnside Sycamore witnessed the battle of Antietam. It still stands more than one hundred fifty years later and remains a favorite landmark for park visitors. You can help preserve and protect this living relic by appreciating it from afar. The fence is here to keep foot traffic from the base of the tree. This will help reduce soil compaction and stream bank erosion that threatens the health of the Burnside Sycamore. Let's do our part to preserve this tree for future generations.

(Landmarks) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Grasslands Meet Mountains

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New Mexico, Union County, near Capulin
The shortgrass prairie and mountain forest meet here in the high plains of northeastern New Mexico. This transition between two ecosystems provides habitat for many different plants and animals. The shortgrass prairie is the western limit of the North American Great Plains.

(Natural Features • Natural Resources) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Melvern Community Veterans Memorial

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Kansas, Osage County, Melvern

Dedicated in 1995, to all Veterans of the Melvern Community, both living and dead. They gave their time and lives to support the ideals of freedom and liberty for which the United States of America stands. For these Veterans we pledge that the memory of their service will not be forgotten or misunderstood.

(Patriots & Patriotism • War, Korean • War, Vietnam • War, World II) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Building a Cinder Cone

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New Mexico, Union County, near Capulin
Cinder cones experience a single eruptive period, and then die. Several explosive eruptions created Capulin Volcano, during a period as short as one year or as long as nine or more years. Today Capulin Volcano is extinct.

Volcanic ash, cinders, and rocks, blown thousand of feet into the air, blanketed the landscape as they cooled and fell. Layers of dust-like ash, small rocks called cinders, and larger chunks called volcanic bombs piled up around the vent to build the cone.

(Natural Features • Natural Resources) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

J. W. Dick-Peddie

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Kansas, Osage County, Melvern

In sincere appreciation of leadership and support in civic and community improvement projects. Specifically:

Melvern City Water System
Blacktop Streets of Business District
Erection of Disaster Warning Siren
Betterment of Fire Dept. and Equiptment [sic]
General Improvement of Entire City

(Charity & Public Work • Politics) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Technology Brings Modern Conveniences

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Texas, Gregg County, Longview

Longview was led into the 20th Century by Mayor Gabriel Augustus Bodenheim (1873-1957), known affectionately as "Bodie." Serving as mayor 1904-1916 and 1918-1920, Bodenheim oversaw Longview's first municipal water works, sanitary sewer system and street-paving projects. Known for his red lapel carnation and gold-headed cane, the mayor engineered the long-delayed annexation of Longview Junction, bringing the city's population to 5,000. In appreciation, a landscaped downtown "Bodie Park" was created in his honor.

1n 1909 when Longview Independent School District was created, the wooden 1883 high school was replaced with a three-story brick structure featuring an impressive cupola. New elementary schools built in this period were Campus Ward, First Ward and Northcutt Heights.

(20th Century • Education • Government) Includes location, directions, 6 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Longview Charters First Industry in Texas

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Texas, Gregg County, Longview
The Kelly Plow Works was reportedly the only non-sawmill industry in the county other than an ice factory. The Kelly plant, supposedly the first chartered industry in Texas, had relocated to Longview from Marion County in 1882. Kelly became well known throughout the South for its popular light turning plow, the Kelly Blue. The plant operated until the 1970s, producing not only plows but also other implements, machines and tools used in agriculture.
Other manufacturing soon followed, including a box factory (whose whistle timed the daily lives of residents for at least 40 years), the Longview Mattress and Bedding Company, and the East Texas Pottery Company. Longview Iron Works produced gasoline engines, sawmill machinery and general foundry products.

(Industry & Commerce) Includes location, directions, 6 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

A Tight Stockade

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville in Macon County

These carefully hewn, closely fitted logs reflect the deliberate design of the prison's initial sixteen and one-half acres. At the far northeast corner, haphazardly spaced tree trunks reveal the hasty construction of the camp's ten-acre addition.

The Confederates' original plan broke down under a wave of overcrowding. The contrasting stockade walls suggest that things had begun to go terribly wrong by the summer of 1864.

(top right)
Based on archeological evidence, this stockade is an accurate reconstruction of the prison's North Gate.

(captions)
(right) When the prison site was selected, dense pine and oak forest covered these slopes. Slaves felled the straightest pines, topped them to a uniform length, and hewed them with broadaxes. The logs were set in a ditch 5 feet deep (as show in the archeologist's photo below) and stood 17 feet above the ground.

"Each pole of the palisades matched so well as to give no glimpse of the outer world across the space of the dead-line…"
Augustus Hamlin, Medical Inspector

(center)10 acre addition June 1864
16½ acres January 1864

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 9 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

World of Lost Spirits

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

When the inner gates swung open, new prisoners had their first vision of life inside. The noise, the stench, the crowd of emaciated men desperate for news, must have been overwhelming.

New arrivals were known as "fresh fish." Anything of value—money, buttons, clothing—might be conned or stolen from them. Even worse was the sight of other prisoners; in those skeletal forms and lifeless eyes, a new prisoner could foresee his own fate.

"Once inside...men exclaimed: 'Is this hell?' Verily, the great mass of gaunt, unnatural-looking beings, soot-begrimed, and clad in filthy tatters, that we saw stalking about inside this pen looked, indeed, as if they might belong to a world of lost spirits."
W.B. Smith, 14th Illinois Infantry
October 9, 1864.

(top right)
Directly ahead stretched "Market Street," the only defined path through the jumble of shelters. Food wagons stopped there, prisoners had bartering sites, and prison merchants set up stalls in a pathetic parody of a commercial street.

(caption)
Issuing rations to 33,000 prisoners, August 1864

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Star Fort

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

Within this stronghold stood the offices of the post commander and the prison commandant. Fort and headquarters were symbols of power, but the fully enclosed earthworks also reflect the authorities' besieged state of mind. Hampered by supply shortages and a constant influx of new prisoners, Confederates here were responsible for operating a prison camp under conditions they could hardly control.

Four of the Star Fort's guns were trained outward to repel Union cavalry raids. The other five cannon were aimed toward the north slope of the prison camp.

(top right)
Before erosion rounded the walls, these earthworks were angled to give defenders overlapping fields of fire.

Star Fort was part of a system of defense. Look for other earthworks and entrenchments around the prison tour road.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 7 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The Prison Hospital

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

This empty field was the site of Andersonville's third and last hospital. There were two previous hospitals within nine months.

It did not take prisoners ling to realize that few patients returned. Knowing that medicines were in short supply, even the sickest men resisted going to the hospital. They preferred to die among friends and regimental comrades.

"The hospital is a tough place to be in....In some cases before a man is fairly dead, he is stripped of everything, coat, pants, shirt, finger rings (if he has any). These nurses trade to the guards."
John L. Ransom, 9th Michigan Cavalry
April 15, 1864

(captions)
(top right) The third hospital was a cluster of open, barracks-like sheds with a surrounding stockade. Historical maps pinpoint the hospital site.

(bottom right) Prison conditions were so unsanitary that the slightest scratch could provide an entry for deadly microbes. Doctors experimented with local herbs and folk remedies in a desperate attempt to combat rampant infections.

(Science & Medicine • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The Commandant's Perspective

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

From these heights near headquarters, Capt. Henry A. Wirz could observe everything withing the prison walls. Envision the white post perimeters as the stockade; 30,000 human beings with that area; the din of all those voices, the groans from the hospital, the shouts of the guards, the smell of unwashed clothes and bodies.

Today's landscape of quiet grass softens for us the images of Andersonville. Wirz, the prison commandant, did not have that luxury.

(captions)
The Wirz execution, November 10, 1865. The prison commandant, Capt. Henry A. Wirz, was responsible for maintaining order and discipline, imposing punishment, and providing rations. In search of a scapegoat after the war, the federal government tried Wirz for "murder, in violation of the laws of war," and sentenced him to death.

Some ten miles south of Andersonville, residents of Americus complained of the smell.

By the summer of 1864, the stockade became so overcrowded that all those individual prisoners may have appeared as a single, shuffling organism.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The "Sinks"

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

This downstream end of Stockade Branch was the site of the camp "sinks" or latrines. According to the Confederates' original plan, prisoners would get drinking water upstream and use latrines downstream, where the current would flush sewage out of camp.

Inadvertently, the prison was designed for death. Stockade posts slowed the drainage, and during dry spells the creek became more swamp than flowing stream. Dysentery swept the camp.

"Our new camp was on the two steep hillsides, at the base of which was a great quagmire. This was ditched through the center with a narrow, shallow stream, which was very sluggish on account of the small supply of water and the slight descent of the ground."
Charles C. Fosdick, 5th Iowa Infantry, February 26, 1864

(caption)
Confederate A.J. Riddle took this photograph of the latrines in August 1864. Though living space was at a premium, five to six acres near the creek remained vacant.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

View from a Pigeon-Roost

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

This photograph was taken in August 1864 from a sentry box just downslope from here. The photographer was A.J. Riddle, who was preparing a report for the Confederate government.

Riddle's seven glass-plate negatives were apparently the only photographs taken of Andersonville prison during the war. Like a double exposure, the surviving photos superimpose the historic reality on today's pastoral scene. You are looking at the same piece of ground Riddle photographed.

(caption)
The photograph shows the deadline, a camp road (North or Market Street), and the crowded shebangs. Shelters were more scattered in the swampy area near the creek.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Pigeon-Roosts

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

Sentry boxes or "pigeon-roosts" were mounted every 100 feet along the top of the stockade. The guards there had orders to shoot any prisoner who crossed the deadline. Otherwise they had little control over conditions inside.

Perched above the camp, the guards themselves became prisoners of tedium and anxiety—always fearful of prisoner uprising or Union cavalry attack. After a while the noise, the stench, and the view across acres of ragged men and shelters have numbed the senses.

The guards also suffered from many of the same health problems as the prisoners, resulting in a high death rate in that group as well.

"Each of the guards faced the vast mass of prisoners and was ordered to closely watch the dead line before and below him half way to his comrade on his right and left."
John L. Maile, 8th Michigan Infantry, May 22, 1864

(captions)
(center) The guards—mostly old men and young boys from the Georgia Reserve Corps—were reluctant witnesses to the misery at Andersonville. More seasoned troops were sent to stop Sherman's drive toward Atlanta.

(right) Local townspeople sometimes came to gawk at the prisoners.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The Expanded Stockade

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

The unhewn logs with daylight between them betray the Confederates' haste to expand the north end of camp. In contrast, the reconstruction at the North Gate section show the carefully planned design of the stockade's initial 16 acres, when officials planned for only 6,000 prisoners.

The outer row of white posts marks the perimeter of the stockade; inner posts marks the deadline. The area between was a no man's land. If prisoners crossed the deadline, guards in the sentry boxes had orders to shoot them.

"July 1 was moving day for thousands of prisoners who had been cramped for sufficient room, and there was a perfect stampede for the new position."
James M. Page, 6th Michigan Cavalry, July 1, 1864

(captions)
This stockade is an accurate reconstruction. Archeologists excavated stumps here that showed the size and spacing of stockade logs. They were able to map the location of each stockade post from the change in soil color produced by rotting wood.

The photograph show the inner and middle stockade in 1867.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Shebangs

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Georgia, Macon County, Andersonville

Prisoners at Andersonville had to provide their own shelters. With sticks and pieces of clothing, the prisoners improvised leaky tents and lean-tos. Many prisoners had no shelter at all.

Protection from rain, dew, and broiling sun became a matter of life or death. Exposure aggravated the many illnesses and infections, and contributed to the soaring mortality rate.

"To reach the spring we had to pick our way through a wilderness of low mud huts and tattered tents. The huts were made out of clay balls, and the tents of old army blankets, fragments of old clothing, oilcloths, etc."
W.B. Smith, 14th Illinois Infantry, October 11, 1864

(caption)
The August 1864 photograph of this hillside shows a rough sea of improvised shelters, which the prisoners called "shebangs." Overcrowding created a prison within a prison: the men were confined by other living bodies as well as by stockade walls.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 6 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Robinson House

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Virginia, Prince William County, near Manassas
Here stood the home of James Robinson and his family. Born "free" in 1799, James is listed as being of mixed racial parentage. Family oral history suggests that James' father was possibly a member of the Carter family of Pittsylvania plantation. In 1840, James purchased 170 acres of land on Henry Hill. Within a decade, he had built a modest one-and-one-half story log dwelling and assorted outbuildings. Robinson was the third wealthiest free black man living in Prince William County prior to the war.

Nine family members, spanning three generations, resided here in 1860. During the First Battle of Manassas, the family took refuge in a neighbor's cellar, and James reportedly hid under the turnpike bridge over Young's Branch. Despite its location amidst the fighting, the house escaped major damage. The farm remained safely behind Union lines through most of the Second Battle of Manassas, although General Franz Sigel established his headquarters on the property.

In 1872, Robinson submitted a claim to the government to recover some of the financial loss incurred during the war. He claimed that $2,608 of personal property was either taken or destroyed by Union soldiers — including large quantities of hay, wheat, corn, livestock, fence rails, and assorted furniture. Robinson was reimbursed for $1,249, less than half of what he claimed.

(caption)
Photo by George Barnard, March 1862.

(African Americans • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Like a Stonewall

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Virginia, Prince William County, near Manassas
Confederate reinforcements deployed into battle line at the edge of the woods behind you. Anchoring the center of this new position stood a brigade of Virginians — 2,500 strong — under the command of General Thomas J. Jackson. When told the enemy was driving the Confederates, Jackson calmly replied, "We will give them the bayonet."

Jackson's determined resistance on Henry Hill drew the attention of General Barnard Bee. Attempting to rally the remnants of his brigade, Bee shouted, "Look! There stands Jackson like a stone wall! Let us go to his assistance!" The nickname spread rapidly through the Confederate army and throughout the South. "Stonewall" Jackson was on his way to becoming a legend.

(caption)
Painting by Dick Richardson

(Military • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Reston

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Virginia, Fairfax County, Reston
In 1961 Robert E. Simon, Jr. began developing 6,750 acres of Sunset Hills Farm as a community open to all races, ages, and incomes. Working with Simon, the architectural firm of Whittlesey and Conelin designed a "New Town." Construction of Lake Anne Village, its lake, central plaza, stores and townhouses began in 1965. With innovative zoning, Reston became one of the first master-planned communities in the United States with residential clusters, mixed-use development, landscape conservation, ample recreational space, walking and biking trails, and public art. Reston received the American Institute of Certified Planners' National Landmark Award in 2002.

(Man-Made Features • Notable Places) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.
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