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The Gallipoli Campaign of 1915

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Turkey, Çanakkale Province, Eceabat district, near Eceabat
English:
The Allied objectives in the Gallipoli Campaign were, by capturing Istanbul, to force Turkey out of the war, to secure an ice-free sea supply route to Russia and to open another front against Germany and Austria-Hungary. The campaign fell into four phases the first being the naval operations of early 1915 culminating, on 18th March, in the unsuccessful attempt by battleships to force the Dardanelles. The second was the landings, beginning on 25th April, by British and French armies on Cape Helles and by the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps (the Anzacs) on the Anzac Beaches. Some headway, although at heavy cost, was made by the Helles landings in operations extending to 5th June but the precipitous and strongly defended terrain limited to a kilometer the penetration from the Anzac landings. In the third phase further British landings to the north of Anzac and at Sulva Bay on 6th August, simultaneously with offensives mounted from both the Helles and Anzac areas, came near to success but after this failure to achieve a breakout the opposing armies remained deadlocked in static trench warfare. In the fourth phase, the withdrawal, the Peninsula was evacuated in two stages - from Sulva and Anzac on the night of 19/20th December and from Helles on that of 8/9th January - in operations in which not one life was lost.

The Royal Navy, with the assistance of ships of the French Navy, played a vital part throughout the campaign. The Navy was responsible for landing and finally for evacuating the troops and their stores; for protecting the wholly sea-borne lines lines of communication; for giving support to the troops by bombardment from the sea' and principally by a series of daring exploits by submarine in the Sea of Marmara, for effectively preventing intervention by the Turkish Fleet. On land the sailors of the Royal Naval Division and the Royal Marines fought and suffered equally with the soldiers.

Under the terms of the Armistice with Turkey the British Army re-entered the Peninsula and the end of 1918 and cleared the battlefields of the bodies still unburied. In the nine months of this bitterly fought campaign the Commonwealth lost more than 36,00 dead. The 31 war cemeteries on the Peninsula contain 22,000 graves but it was possible to identify only 9,000 of these. The 13,000 who rest in unidentified graves in the cemeteries together with the 14,000 whose remains were never found are commemorated individually by name on the Helles Memorial (British, Australian and Indian names), the Lone Pine Memorial (Australian and New Zealand names) and the Twelve Tree Copse, Hill 60 and Chunuk Bair Memorials ( New Zealand names).

Johnston's Jolly, Anzac
Lone Pine Cemetery and Memorial, Anzac

Johnston's Jolly, so called because an Australian artillery officer used to "jolly-up" the opposing troops there, was the northern and Lone Pine - a single pine grew there - the southern part of Plateau 400. Both positions were overrun in the initial Anzac landings but retaken by the Turks on the evening of the next day. The Lone Pine position, fortified to become one the strongest in the Turkish line, was again captured by the Australians on 6th August and held until the final evacuation. Johnston's Jolly was never recaptured. The burials in these two cemeteries, largely made after the Armistice, are: (see marker image for table)
A lone pine, grown from the seed of the original tree, still grows in the cemetery and the Lone Pine Memorial, carrying the names of 4,223 Australian and 709 New Zealand soldiers whose grave are unknown, stands over the captured trenches.

These Cemeteries and this Memorial Were Built and Maintained by The Commonwealth War Graves Commission

The Architect was Sir John Burnet


Turkish:
Gelibolu Harekâtı ile Müttefik Devletlerin gayesi; İstanbul'u ele geçirmek, Türkiye'yi savaşdışı bırakmak, Sovyetler Birliǧi'ne giden ve ikmal yolu vazifesini gören ılık deniz yolunu ele geçirmek ve Avusturya-Macaristan'a karşı bir cephe açmaktı.
Bu harekât dört safhaya ayrılır. Birinci safha, deniz harekâtı olarak 1915 yılının başlarında başlar ve 18 Mart'da en yüksek noktasına ulaşır. Çanakkale Boğazı'nı savaş gemileri ile geçmek için yapılan bu teşebbüs başarısızlıkla sonuçlanır. İkinci safha, 25 Nisan'da başlayan İngiliz ve Fransız ordularının Seddülbahir ucuna ve Avustralya ve Yeni Zelanda ordularının (Anzaklar) Arıburnu (Anzac) kumsalına yaptıkları çıkarmalardır. Seddülbahirdeki harekâtta, 5 Hazirana kadar olan sürede büyük kayıplara malolan bazı ilerlemeler sağlanır. Fakat Arıburnu çıkarmalarında, çok dik ve kuvvetli savunulan arazi, birliklerin Üçüncü safha ise, 6 Ağustosdaki Arıburnu'nun kuzeyindeki Anafarta Limanına (Küçük Kemikli Körfezine) yapılan çıkarmalardır ki- Seddülbahir ve Arıburnu bölgesinde de aynı zamanda yapılan taarruzlar ile birlikte yürütülür - bu harekât hemen hemen başarıya ulaşır gözükür. Ancak bunda da başarı sağlanamayınca, her iki tarafın orduları, kurtuluş olarak sabit siper muharebelerine geçerler ve kilitlenip kalırlar. Dördüncü safha ise, çekilme yâni yarımadayı terk etmedir. Gelibolu Yarımadası 2 aşamada boşaltılır. Anafarta ve Arıburnu'ndan 19/20 Aralık gecesi ve Seddülbahir'den 8/9 Ocak gecesi yapılan bu çekilme harekâtı hiç bir kayıp verilmeksizin gerçekleştirilir.

Ingiltere Kraliyet Deniz Kuvvetleri, Fransız Deniz Kuvvetleri gemilerinin de yardımı ile bütün harekât boyunca çok önemli bir rol oynamıştır. Kraliyet Deniz Kuvvetleri bütün bu çıkarmalardan ve sonunda birliklerin ve malzemenin geri çekilmesinden sorumluydu. Ayrıca; tamamen deniz yolundan yapılan muhaberenin sağlanması, denizden yapılan borbardımanlar ile birliklere destek sağlanması ve Marmara Denizinde, genellikle denizaltılar ile bir seri cüretli kahramanlık gösterileri yapma ve özellikle Türk Donanmasının işe karışmaması için gerekli önlemleri alına görevleri de vardı. Karada ise, Kraliyet Deniz Kuvvetlerine ait asker ve deniz piyadeleri diğer askerlerle birlikte aynı şartlar altında çarpışmış ve aynı güçlüklerle karşılaşmış ve bunlara katlanmıştı.

Türkiye ile yapılan Mütareke hükümleri gereğince, Ingiliz ordusu 1918 yılı sonlarında Gelibolu Yarımadasına tekrar girdi ve bu arada savaş alanlarında hâlâ gömülmemiş bulunan harb ölülerini gömerek sahayı temizledi. Bu acı harekâtin dokuz ayı içinde Britanya Milletler Topluluǧu 36000 den fazla savaş ölüsü vermişti. Şimdi yarımadada 31 Harb Mezarlıǧında 22000 savaş mezarı vardır ki bunlardan sadece 9000 adedinde yatanların kimlikleri bellidir. Ayrıca, 14000 askerin cesetleri bile bulunamamış olup bunlar; Helles Âbidesinde (İngiliz, Avustralyalı ve Yeni Zelandalıların), Lone Pine Âbidesinde (Avustralyalı, İngiliz ve Yeni Zelandalıların), Twelve Tree Copse, Hill 60 ve Chunuk Bair Âbidelerinde (Yeni Zelandalıların) isimleri vazıh olarak anılmaktadırlar.

Johnston's Jolly Mezaarliǧi, Arıburnu
Lone Pine Mezarlıǧı ve Âbidesi, Arıburnu

Johnston's Jolly, bir Avustralyalı Topçu Subayının karşı tarafın birliklerine şaka yapması anlamına gelen "jolly-up" kelimesinden esinlenerek bu isim konmuş olup 400 rakımlı Platonun kuzeyinde; tek çam anlamına gelen Lone Pine ise, bu platonun güneyinde yer alırlar. Her iki mevkii de, Arıburnu çıkarmalarının başlangıcında ele geçirilmiş fakat ertesi günü akşamında tekrar Türkler tarafından geri alınmıştı. Lone Pine mevkii, Türk hatlarının en kuvvetli istihkâm edilmiş yerlerinden biri iken Avustralyalılar tarafından 6 Ağustos'da tekrar ele geçirilmiş ve son çekilme ve boşaltmağa kadar elde tutulmuştu. Johnston's Jolly ise hiç bir zaman tekrar ele geçirilememiştir. Bu iki mezarlığa gömülme işlemi daha çok Mütareke'den sonra yapılmış olup bu mezarlıklarda yatanların milliyetleri aşağıda yazıldığı gibidir:

O zamanlar burada mevcut bulunan tek bir çam aǧacının tohumundan yetiştirilmiş olan tek çam ağacı şimdi gene Lone Pine (Tek Çam) mezarlığında bulunmakta olup mezarları bilinmeyen 4223 Avustralyalı ve 709 Yeni Zelandalının isimleri de yazılı Lone Pine Âbidesi ise, ele geçirilmiş siperlerin üzerinde yükselmektedir.

(War, World I) Includes location, directions, 8 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The Summit: An Island Above the Clouds

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Massachusetts, Berkshire County, Lanesborough

The Summit: An Island Above the Clouds
Mount Greylock State Reservation

Welcome to the peak of Mount Greylock, the highest point in Massachusetts and the focal point of the state’s first wilderness park.
Greylock summit is an unusual and fascinating natural environment shaped by humankind into what is both a recreational park and a place of remembrance. Rising above the summit is the stat’e official monument to her fallen soldiers, the 1932 War Memorial Tower. Surrounded by Massachusetts’only subalpine forest and dramatic outcrops of schist stone, the tower stands at the center of a landscape designed by the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) in the 1930s.

Stepping onto Greylock Summit is like landing on a unique island where traces of ancient mountain-building, Ice Age forests, and historic cultural resources survive. Discover clues to our past while enjoying the splwendor of Greylock.

From the Top of the Tower
On a clear day, visitors can see as far as 90 miles, as shown in this view to the north from the top of the tower. At the bottom of the photo is the CCC-built Thunderbolt Ski Shelter, which has long warmed skiers brave enough to venture down the famed Thunderbolt Ski Trail.

“Parkitecture”
Bascom Lodge offers food and accommodations in a rustic, post-and-beam building, mostly built by the Civilian Conservation Corps from stone quarried on-site. The lodge and other structures on the summit are part of the Mount Greylock Summit National Register Historic District.

“. . . a Canadian Island rising from an Alleghanian Sea .” – William Brewster, noted ornithologist, 1884

A Forest Sculpted by Climate
High winds, deep snow and bitter cold have stunted and carved the trees on the summit, creating an environment found nowhere else in the state. This “boreal” forest is subject to such extreme conditions that ecologists have often described it as a chunk of northern Canada dropped into the Berkshires. In the past, logging and farming menaced this small, fragile ecosystem. In the future, scientists believe, climate change may make winters shorter, drier and warmer, which could put at risk many of the cold-weather species that now thrive here.

(Environment) Includes location, directions, 7 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

C.S. Gregg's Task Force

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Mississippi, Hinds County, Raymond


C.S. Gregg’s Task Force
Brig. Gen. John Gregg
Gregg’s Brigade
Col. Cyrus A. Sugg
3d Tennessee Infantry, Col. Calvin H. Walker
10th & 30th Tennessee Consolidated Infantry, Col. Randal MacGavock (K)
Lt. Col. James J. Turner
41st Tennessee Infantry, Col. Robert I. Farquharson
50th Tennessee Infantry, Lt. Col. Thomas S. Beaumont
1st Tennessee Infantry Battalion, Maj. Stephen H. Colms
7th Texas Infantry, Col. Hiram B. Granbury

The brigade moved from Port Hudson, Louisiana, to Jackson, Mississippi where it arrived on May 9. Early on May 11 the brigade marched to Raymond and went into bivouac. At 9:00 a.m. on May 12 the brigade was deployed for battle along Fourteen Mile Creek to block the Federal advance coming from Utica. Fighting erupted at 10 o’clock. At noon Gregg launched an attack en echelon with the intention of turning the Federal right flank and capturing the enemy guns positioned south of the creek. The attack soon faltered as additional Union brigades arrived on the field. The Federals counterattacked and by 4 p.m. forced Gregg’s men from the field. The brigade fell back through Raymond and bivouacked for the night along Snake Creek. On May 13 Gregg’s men withdrew to Jackson.

Casualties reported 73 killed, 252 wounded, 190 missing or captured

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

C.S. Gregg's Task Force

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Mississippi, Hinds County, Raymond


C.S. Gregg’s Task Force
Miscellaneous Attached Units, May 12, 1863
1st Mississippi Battalion State Troops
Capt. James Hall
The 40-man detachment picketed the road to Utica and contested McPherson’s advance, but was unable to penetrate the 160-man Federal cavalry screen

Squadron, Wirt Adams’ Mississippi Cavalry
Capt. William Yerger
The squadron of 50 troopers patrolled northwest of Raymond to protect the roads to the railroad and to Clinton and Jackson.

3d Kentucky Mounted Infantry
Col. Albert P. Thompson
Six companies arrived from Jackson at the end of the battle and helped cover Gregg’s retreat

Casualties: Not reported

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

C.S. Bledsoe's Missouri Battery (3 Guns)

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Mississippi, Hinds County, Raymond


C.S. Bledsoe’s Missouri Battery (3 Guns),
Gregg’s Task Force;
Capt. Hiram M. Bledsoe.
Around 9:30 a.m., May 12, 1863, Brig. Gen. John Gregg placed Captain Bledsoe’s two 12-pounder smoothbores and one Whitworth rifle here on a knoll at the junction of the Port Gibson and Utica roads, a position that commanded the Fourteenmile Creek bridge, 870 yards distant. At 10 a.m. Bledsoe’s guns opened fire on Maj. Gen. James B. McPherson’s approaching Federals of the XVII Corps. Around 2:30 p.m. the Whitworth burst during firing, and by 4:00 p.m. Gregg began withdrawing his outnumbered troops from the field.

No casualties reported.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Bledsoe's Battery

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Mississippi, Hinds County, Raymond
Anticipating that the enemy would approach Raymond from both of these roads, Confederate General Gregg positioned Capt. Hiram Bledsoe’s battery of three cannon and a battalion of infantry here to defend Raymond from either direction. However, on May 12 the center of action was along the Utica Road, near the bridge, toward which these cannon are aimed. In conjunction with the Confederate skirmishers along Fourteenmile Creek, these guns opened fire on the first Federal troops that approached the creek, almost a thousand yards south.

After inconclusively dueling all day against a larger battery of twenty-two cannons nearly a mile to the south, one of the guns exploded.

While changes in elevation from this point to Fourteenmile Creek bridge are subtle, Gregg could have used this high ground as his vantage point to watch the battle progress. The smoke and haze of that day, however, prevented him from being able to discern the size and strength of the Union forces.

(Upper Sketches Caption)
Sketches of loading and firing artillery by Theo Davis, artist-journalist for the Harper’s Weekly newspaper who sketched at the Battle of Raymond and throughout the Vicksburg Campaign.

(Lower Drawing Caption)
This battery consisted of two 12-pounder cannons (typical 12-pounders, below) and a rare breech-loading English-made Whitworth rifled cannon.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The 1833 Buffalo Lighthouse

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New York, Erie County, Buffalo
The oldest building in Buffalo still standing on its original site, this lighthouse was built in 1832 and 1833. The oldest portion is the 44-foot tapering octagonal tower. The original lantern room was removed in 1857 and the stone casement window section and metal upper portions added to raise the light and make room for a fog bell.

Nicknamed the "old Stone Light" in the 19th century and "Chinaman's Light" early this century, the tower originally used whale-oil lamps and polished reflectors, kerosene lamps and a fresnel lens were in use early this century. But the lighthouse was decommissioned in 1914 and the breakwater light station became the main beacon for the expanded harbor.

A classic fresnel lens was installed and the lighthouse re-lit to help open the first Buffalo-Fort Erie Friendship Festival in 1987.

(Notable Buildings) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Mississippi Central R.R. Campaign

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Mississippi, Marshall County, Holly Springs
On November 7, 1862, Gen. John Pemberton reviewed his Confederate troops here. The next day, the army withdrew to a defensive position behind the Tallahatchie River. Union Gen. Grant's forces arrived on the 29th. After learning that Pemberton had withdrawn, Grant moved to Waterford, 8 miles south, on December 1. Holly Springs became a Union supply depot. On December 20, the depot was destroyed by Van Dorn's Confederate cavalry, while N. B. Forrest's men hit the railroad in west Tennessee, forcing Grant to abandon his campaign.

(Railroads & Streetcars • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Mississippi Central R.R. Campaign

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Mississippi, Marshall County, Holly Springs
Located approx. 400 yards north was the Jones-McElwain and Co. Iron Foundry, established 1859. In 1861, the firm was awarded a Confederate contract to produce rifles and muskets. Before any weapons were made, Holly Springs was threatened by Union forces and the machinery was moved to Macon, Georgia. Federal troops occupied Holly Springs on November 13, 1862, and began converting the factory into a hospital. The unfinished hospital was destroyed during Van Dorn's raid. Only the base of a chimney remains.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Airliewood

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Mississippi, Marshall County, Holly Springs
Airliewood, built in 1858 for William H. Coxe on a fifteen acre estate, is a gothic style villa. The massive iron gate and fence are attributed to Wood & Perot of Boston. At the invitation of Coxe, the house was used by Major General U.S. Grant as his headquarters and family residence during the winter of 1862-1863.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Asbury United Methodist Church

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Mississippi, Marshall County, Holly Springs
At the original site of the Asbury Methodist Church, the Upper Mississippi conference was organized on February 5, 1891. Classes first held in the church led to the establishment of Rust College.

(African Americans • Churches, Etc. • Education) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Yellow Fever House

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Mississippi, Marshall County, Holly Springs
Residence of W.J.L. Holland, who gave his quarters and his life during the yellow fever epidemic of 1878. The benevolent Holland died while chairman of the relief committee.

(Charity & Public Work • Disasters) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Boothbay Maine Civil War Monument

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Maine, Lincoln County, Boothbay
Erected
in memory of the
256 Soldiers & Sailors
from
Boothbay
in the
War of 1861-5.

"The world can never forget
what they did"

1879.
Hallowell Granite Company Hallowell Maine

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Gare du Nord

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France, Île-de-France, Paris, Paris
Construite en 1845 par Reynaud sur un terrain de l'ancien enclos Saint-Lazare, la première gare du Nord eut la vie courte. Rapidement insuffisante, en raison de l'accroissement du trafic vers la banlieue, elle fut détruite quinze ans plus tard. Sa façade démontée pierre par pierre fut remontée à Lille, surmontée d'un étage et d'une tour d'horloge. L'édifice actuel fut construit de 1861 à 1864 par Jacques-Ignace Hittorff. Son décor sculpté, vingt-trois statues monumentales de villes françaises et étrangères (au fronton, Paris), est dû aux plus grands noms de la sculpture du Second Empire.

Agrandie en 1898 en direction de la rue de Dunkerque, la gare du Nord a pu dès lors assurer, sans grande modification, un trafic sans cesse croissant.

[English translation]:
Built in 1845 by (Léonce) Reynaud on the grounds of the former Saint-Lazare enclosure, the first Paris North train station was short-lived. Due to the increased traffic to the suburbs, it was demolished fifteen years later. Its facade was removed stone by stone and rebuilt in Lille, with an additional floor and a clock tower. The current building was built between 1861 and 1864 by Jacques-Ignace Hittorff. Its carved decoration and twenty-three monumental statues from French and foreign cities (on the pediment), include works from some of the biggest names in sculpture from the Second Empire.

After being enlarged in 1898 towards the Rue de Dunkerque, the Paris North rail station was able to meet the increased rail transportation demand without significant modification.

(Railroads & Streetcars) Includes location, directions, 6 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

La basilique du Sacré-Cœur

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France, Île-de-France, Paris, Paris
En juillet 1873, l'Assemblée nationale déclare d'utilité publique la basilique que l'archevêque de Paris propose d'élever, par souscription nationale, au sommet de la colline de Montmartre, "en l'honneur du Sacré-Cœur de Jesus-Christ, pour appeler sur la France, et en particulier sur la capitale, la miséricorde et la protection divines". Ainsi se concrétise le "Vœu national" lancé en 1870 pour la délivrance du pape et le salut de la France. Pie IX venait d'instituer la fête du Sacré-Cœur en 1856, cédant aux instances de Jésuites.

La première pierre du colossal édifice est posée en 1875, sure l'emplacement du parc d'artillerie, et sa construction s'achève laborieusement: sa consécration a seulement lieu le 16 octobre 1919.

[English translation]:
In July 1873 the National Assembly declared the need for a basilica, proposed by the Archbishop of Paris and funded by national subscription, atop the hill Montmartre, "in honor of the Sacred Heart of Jesus Christ, to call on France and especially the capital, mercy and divine protection." Thus was realized the "National Vow" launched in 1870 for the issue of the pope and the salvation of France. Pius IX had just instituted the feast of the Sacred Heart in 1856, yielding to the requests of the Jesuits.

The cornerstone of this colossal building was laid in 1875, on the site of the former artillery park. Its laborious construction was completed and the building consecrated on 16 October 1919.

(Churches, Etc.) Includes location, directions, 7 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Adams Overlook: A Town Tied to the Mountain

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Massachusetts, Berkshire County, Lanesborough

Adams Overlook: A Town Tied to the Mountain
Mount Greylock State Reservation

Adams Overlook faces east, looking over the town of Adams to the Hoosac Range, a branch of the Berkshire Mountains. Named after Revolutionary War hero John Adams, the town long depended on Greylock’s streams, which powered its textile and lumber mills. Equally important to Adams was Greylock’s timber, cut to make charcoal, another power source. Today, with the mills closed, the town again relies on the mountain – a scenic landmark and recreational source.

Limestone and Farmland
Durable schist bedrock comprises the backbone of the mountain. Around it is softer marble and limestone, which eroded away, creating the valleys and foothills we see today. Nearly pure marble from the Adams quarry (above) is used in food, nutritional supplements, pharmaceutical and personal care products. The eroded marble also enriches the soil, creating farmland that since colonial times has supported livestock such as these Merino sheep (below).

View to Adams

Berkshire Mills
The Berkshire Cotton Manufacturing Company mill complex (above) in the center of Adams employed thousands of workers between its founding in 1889 and its closure in 1958. In this 1916 photograph (right) taken at Berkshire Mills by noted U.S. photographer Lewis Hine, a 14-year old girl spins cloth at her work station, winding the thread onto spools and bobbins like those shown below.

From Devastation to Conservation
In the mid-19th century, writers like Nathaniel Hawthorne and Herman Melville both viewed Greylock as an emblem of nature’s majesty – Melville dedicated his novel Pierre (1857) to the mountain. But as artists extolled its beauty, others were alarmed by its rapid deforestation (above, a postcard from 1910). The protection of Greylock, which gave us the reforested landscape we see today, was one of the first crusades – and first victories – of the new conservation movement.

Thoreau and Greylock
Among the first writers to visit Greylock as Henry David Thoreau, who slept on the summit – and woke to find himself alone, above “an ocean of mist, which . . . shut out every vestige of the earth” below. The celestial beauty of the sight helped spur Thoreau’s belief in nature’s profound ethical and spiritual value, a view that he laid out in works such as Walden (1854) and The Maine Woods (1864).

“It was such a country as we might see in dreams, with all the delights of paradise. There were immense snowy pastures, apparently smooth-shaven and firm, and shady vales between the vaporous mountains . . . . It was a favor for which to be forever silent to be shown this vision.” – Henry David Thoreau, A Week on the Concord and Merrimack Rivers, 1849

(Environment) Includes location, directions, 11 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The Trail's End Project

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Missouri, Pettis County, Sedalia

The Trail's End Project is an historical, educational and artistic tribute to the American spirit of opportunity, adventure and perseverance staged in the 1860's era of dynamic western development. The times were turbulent with political[,] economic and demographic upheaval in the aftermath of the Civil War (1861-1865). Particular importance is given to Sedalia's connection to early cattle drives and the development of the railroad system as part of the expanding frontier. President Lincoln's benevolent leadership style set the goal to unite the country by completing the transcontinental railroad, taking the place of dangerous wagon trains, stage coaches and long sea routes. He had also signed the Homestead Act (1862), which would lead to 270 million acres of land being developed - 160 acres per claimant - bringing settlers and hopeful immigrants westward in search of a new life.

The promise of wealth in finding gold and silver brought would-be miners to every new "find," creating boom towns all over the west. The gold discovery at Sutter's Mill in the Sierra range enticed over 300,000 "49'ers" to make their way to California.

Following the Civil War, there were millions of cattle, primarily longhorns of Spanish origin, roaming the plains of Texas. Herds of buffalo, nearly 60 million, had dominated the plains and provided the American Indian tribes with most necessities. With slaughter and over-hunting, the bison population dropped to less than 100 and the prairie lands were open to expanded cattle ranching. The meat-starved North provided a far better market for beef, which set the stage for the "Great American Cattle Drives" (1866-1890) and a place in history for the iconic American cowboy. Though cattle had been traditionally herded long before, 1866 marked the beginning of one of the greatest animal migrations in history, estimated at 5 to 11 million head moving north over Indian, game and wagon trails to available rail heads, the closest at the time being Sedalia (1866). As railroad construction and rail heads (Sedalia, Abilene, Dodge City) moved west and south, so did the cattle trails. The routes chosen would eventually receive formal names: Shawnee-Sedalia, Chisholm, Western, and Goodnight-Loving Trails.

In a typical trail drive, 12 to 15 wranglers (vaqueros, Indians, former soldiers and slaves, some young women-often disguised as boys, and teenagers or "cowboys") teamed to round up, road brand, and drive 2000 to 3000 head of maverick "beeves" north. They covered 12 to 15 miles per day in a dangerous endeavor with the threat of stampedes, lightning, snakes, Indian and rustler attacks, flooded rivers (notably the Brazos and the Red), anthrax, equine accidents and cholera. They encountered armed and angry Midwestern farmers, rightfully concerned about Texas Fever, a pooly understood tick-borne bovine disease. They spent 14 hours a day in the saddle on the 600 to 800 mile trip, which took two to three months and paid $100 for their toil and trouble.

The attire for the cowboy was functional: chaps (chaparreras), broad-rimmed hat, bandana, slicker, deep-pocketed vest, gloves, boots and his saddle. Pants were second-hand wool or old military uniforms. Riveted denim jeans would not come into use until much later after Bavarian Levi Strauss developed them for California gold prospectors. The cowboy's boots were pointed and heeled to ease into the stirrup and not slip through. They were knee high to protect from thorns and to keep out the dirt and sand. They had "mule ears" to tug them on and spurs to communicate with his horse.

One steer was chosen to lead the strung-out ribbon of beef. Grazing and driving had to be balanced so that the cattle didn't drop their weight before getting to market. With the trailboss in the lead, point riders directing traffic, swing and flank riders keeping check and the drag drovers eating dust, they would repeat the daily routine of moving the doggies along. "Cookie" and the chuck wagon (developed by Charles Goodnight for the cattle drives) and the remuda of 150 horses were often out in front of the herd, heading to the next watering hole and keeping ahead of other outfits on the move.

From Missouri, the country was expanding westward, realizing the American dream of "Manifest Destiny." In 1804, Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery began the exploration of President Thomas Jefferson's new Louisiana Purchase from their base camp in St. Charles, Missouri.

Missouri became the 24th state of the union in 1821 as part of the Missouri Compromise. Missouri was a "jumping off point" for settlers heading west, since the Santa Fe (1821), Oregon (1841), and California (1844-an offshoot from the Oregon and Mormon Trails) Trails emanated from Independence, Missouri. The promise of land, opportunity, religious and personal freedom, gold and silver mining and serious adventure brought settlers, miners and pioneers west. The Pony Express (1860-1861) began its run of 1900 miles from St. Joseph, Missouri, stopping at 157 stations over ten days before it reached its destination in Sacramento, California. The Butterfield Overland Stagecoach route (1857-1861) traveled from Memphis, Tennessee through Missouri in a southern inclination, and then on to California. Situated smack dab in the middle of all of this bustling "westward ho" activity was Sedalia, "The Queen City of the Prairies" and eventually, "Train Town USA." It was a bustling community of cattlemen, railroad workers, westward travelers, Civil War veterans and profiteers. The economic and demographic explosion made Sedalia the home to both expected and "colorful" enterprises and brought a new wave of entertainment, which eventually included Scott Joplin and ragtime music.

The development of modern trains over the past 200 years created a dramatic paradigm shift in transportation, settlement and economics. Paralleling the Industrial Revolution in England, transportation and the world were transformed by the development of the steam engine by Scotsman James Watt. With his invention, he coined the term "horse power," equivalent to 746 "watts," in 1774, as the first trains had been pulled on a track by horses. Steam power was further refined by George Stephenson, who developed the first steam locomotive in 1825. America imported the technology and the first rail line in the U.S. was the Baltimore and Ohio Line, established in 1826. The first U.S.-made steamer (the Tom Thumb) hit the rails in 1829, though it lost a race to a horse in an early competition. Rail transport was safer and more efficient and gradually replaced canal and river conveyance with mule-drawn barges and paddle wheel boats. Engines burned anything that could bring water to a boil-first wood, then coal and coke. Trains were essential to the Union during the Civil War in troop movement and as supply lines. The South had a haphazard rail system. In 1856, the first rail bridge was constructed across the Mississippi River, paving the way for the transcontinental route. The process of building the rail line involved political compromises, surveying the routes, blasting the obstacles with black powder, building tunnels and bridges, laying the road bed, ties and rails and maintaining the track and suppporting [sic] structures while keeping supplies ahead of the advancements.

In 1851, tracks were laid for the Pacific Railroad in St. Louis, one of the first rail lines west of the Mississippi. In 1866, the railroad built large stockyards, followed by a roundhouse and repair shops. Westward construction was interrupted by the Civil War and in 1872, the Pacific was reorganized as the Missouri Pacific Railway. With mergers and acquisitions, MoPac would own nearly 12,000 miles of track over 11 states from Chicago to Colorado and from Nebraska to the Mexican border. In 1904, the City of Sedalia gave MoPac 120 acres and the largest rail car repair shop west of the Mississippi was constructed. Passenger trains acquired scenic names in the 20th century like The Rainbow and Sunshine Special. Other notable trains included The Missourian, Ozarker, Pioneer, Sunflower, Orleanean and Texan. Known for its "Screaming Eagle" symbol and color scheme, it was a major hauler of grain, trailers, coal and dry goods. In 1982, the Missouri Pacific merged with the Union Pacific and Western Pacific Railroads to create the Pacific Rail Systems, later becoming the Union Pacific Corporation.

The pioneer railroad of the Southwest, the Missouri-Kansas-Texas line traversed the rolling hills of the plains through Indian territory and, eventually, out to the Rockies and down to the Gulf of Mexico. The M-K-T, or "Katy" as it was soon called, was a land grant concept destined to connect military posts, induce western development and provide dependable transport for good, services and passengers in the expanding Southwest. The Katy was established in 1865 as the southern branch of the Union Pacific Railway Company and evolved in a north-south direction, in contrast to the transcontinental and other east-west routes.

The Katy was the first line to enter Texas from the north. Operations commenced in 1870 and through its years of operation, laid track and consolidated other rail lines, controlling over 6000 miles of road and track. In 1988, the Missouri Pacific Railroad and its owner, the Union Pacific, purchased the Katy. Much of the Missouri track line has been adapted in the Rails to Trails Program into the Katy Trail State Park, the longest such trail in the nation. It continues to expand and serve Missouri communities, much as the railroad did at its inception.

The historic Katy Depot, located at 600 East Third Street, is known for its Romanesque Revival style and limestone construction, quarried locally from Georgetown. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it is part of the Missouri Department of Natural Resources, Katy Trail State Park, and home to the Sedalia Area Chamber of Commerce, the Convention and Visitor's Bureau, the Depot Store and the Heritage Foundation.

Sedalia was no different than a great number of new western towns, as they tended to develop first along the waterways and later in line with railroads and trade routes. Western "boom towns" sprang up on trade routes, because of the growing railroad and cattle industry, or as the result of a gold strike. With an agricultural and varied economic base, the former had a greater chance of surviving the "bust" phase of townships as opposed to the "strike" communities, which often became ghost towns. George Smith saw the opportunity as the Pacific Railroad was selecting a route west and he secured land in its path to incorporate "Sedville" in 1857, later changed to Sedalia, and was rewarded with a depot and land. The railroad brought settlers, supplies, opportunists and speedy transport of goods and services in both directions. The lumber industry profited by the need for railroad ties. The steel industry (exemplified by Andrew Carnegie and the Bessemer steel process) developed affordable, lighter weight and more durable steel rails in comparison to the 700-pound iron rails used in the transcontinental railroad. Sedalia would later be the beneficiary of the first Carnegie grant in Missouri for the public library. The coal industry grew as wood was replaced by coal, when available, to fuel the steam locomotives (wood produced 3200 BTU per pound and coal 14,000 BTU per pound). Construction jobs were created, as the railroad had significant economic, political and social implications in the changing times of the 19th century. Early tracks had a variety of gauges or widths until they were standardized in 1863 to the modern day four feet, eight and one-half inch. The rail industry developed the five regional time zones, which became official in 1918. Though revolutionary in itself, railroad expansion also had controversial effects, such as the rapid loss of American Indian land, scandal and corruption during its planning and development, and the exploitation of workers. Trains remain one of the world's foremost resources for goods, services and human transportation as the speed has grown from 10 m.p.h. in the beginning to a world record of 361 m.p.h.

The first inhabitants of North America and Missouri were the Paleo Indians, nomadic hunters present around 10,000 B.C. or the end of the last ice age. A number of tribal civilizations had presence over the timeline, with the warring Osage being the most dominant, but including Cadda, Dakota, Delaware, Fox, Illinois, Kickapoo, Otoe, Sauk, Missouria, and Shawnee.

Missouri was a borderland between the deciduous woodlands and western prairies with the prairie grass bringing buffalo, elk, deer, wolves, coyotes, prairie chickens and an abundance of plant species to provide for fruitful tribal lands and way of life. The European settlers pushed native tribes farther west and brought new ideas, religion, weapons, transportation (horse and wheel) and livestock (cattle and sheep). They also brought diseases that the American Indians were not immune to (tuberculosis, cholera, small pox and measles), which had devastating effects. Tribes endured forced migration westward to "Indian Territory," with the "Trail of Tears" representing the last of the Southeast tribes (Creek, Choctaw, Chickasaw, Seminole and finally, Cherokee in 1835) in a cataclysmic exodus. Indian wars were common throughout the history of the U.S., both east and west of the Mississippi, as tribes resisted giving up their long-established way of life. Though Indian tribes had some success in resisting the mass immigration, their battle style was no match for the cavalry and its weapons, forts, railroads and logistics. One notable clash was the Lakota Sioux and Cheyenne under Chiefs Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse as they defeated George Armstrong Custer and the 7th Cavalry in 1876 near Montana's Little Big Horn River.

The use of wind power has been recognized since the times of ancient Persia, but it was an essential element of the western expansion. Early settlements had to be located near rivers or springs or a well had to be dug by hand. Daniel Halladay, a Connecticut machinist, invented the "American" windmill in 1854. Life-giving water could then be pumped for human, livestock, and steam locomotive use. The windmill opened the west to farming, ranching, settlements and "water and fuel" stops, which allowed the railroad development to progress overland. In their heyday, over six million windmills were sold by dozens of companies as the design transformed from wood to galvanized steel. Gasoline engines and the electrification of the country brought an end to windmill importance, but they still create vertical spires on the prairies and are still an aesthetic reminder of the frontier days. As history often repeats itself, windmills are back in the limelight as high-tech power generators once again.

Trail's End Guide By Cell Audio Tour

The Starline Brass Trail's End audio tour can be accessed from any phone, including any cell phone, and is available as a "local" call by dialing 1-660-202-1156. After the welcome and introduction, you can dial 2 and then the # sign to find a listing of 18 "stops" on the tour, which cover a variety of topics from cattle drives to steam locomotives to regional points of interest. To move to the next stop, press the desired number and the # sign. The listed stops are also available along with expanded information on the Trail's End Project at the website:
www.thetrailsend.org

The welcome and overview from Country Music Hall of Famer Leroy Van Dyke begins the tour. By pressing any desired number and then the # key, you will be taken to a one to two minute narration on that particular topic.

1. Welcome and overview by Leroy Van Dyke
2. Audio listing of all the Guide by Cell "stops"
3. History and importance of the American windmill
4. Necessity of the water tank in steam locomotion
5. Railroad history and evolution
6. Steam locomotive and tender car
7. Stock or cattle car
8. Rare drover's caboose
9. Horse's perspective on the cattle drive
10. Trail or cow dog's perspective
11. Missouri flag and state symbol
12. Missouri State Fair
13. Trail boss's perspective
14. Pioneer memorial and Trail's End time capsule
15. Longhorn's perspective on the cattle drive
16. Regional geography
17. Katy Depot and Scott Joplin legacy
18. Daum Museum and Sedalia points of interest

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America's 1st Trail's End
The vision of the Trail's End is to create a lasting visual history that educates, inspires and informs about the early settlement of the west, paying tribute to America's first major cattle drive, the start of one of the greatest animal migrations in history that helped define the American Cowboy and the railroad development and construction that expanded and connected the post Civil War nation.

"At the end of the Civil War, in 1865, Philip Armour and Gustavus Swift built meat packing plants in Chicago, a growing town linked by rail to Sedalia, Missouri. The Sedalia Trail (1866-67) following the old Shawnee Indian Trail was born."
Great American Cattle Drives
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End of the Trail [Memorial Cairn] This is in dedication to all of the cowboys, pioneers, railroad workers, settlers, and homesteaders whose life came to an early end. They came to settle the West as well as make a better life and future for generations to come.
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[high end sponsors, not transcribed]

(Animals • Industry & Commerce • Railroads & Streetcars • Settlements & Settlers) Includes location, directions, 13 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

A. The Propylaia, B. The Shrine of Athena Hygieia and Hygieia

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Greece, Attica Region, Central Athens Regional Unit, Athens
English Text:

A. The Propylaia
The Propylaia, the monumental entrance of the sanctuary of the Acropolis, was built at the west edge of the hill in the frame of the building programme of Perikles. The building's architect was Mnesikles, who applied ingenious and innovative architectural solutions. The construction of the Propylaia (437-432 B.C.) was interrupted by the outbreak of the Peloponnesian War, and as a result the original plan remained incomplete.

The Propylaia comprise a central building with an East-West direction and similar hexastyle (6 columns) Doric pedimental facades. A cross-wall with five doorways divides the central building into two parts. The longer western one is divided into three aisles by two Ionic colonnades, each of the three columns, which support the ceiling. The marble ceilings comprised beams and coffered slabs which had rich painted decoration. The central building of the Propylaia is flanked on the south and the north by two wings with a similar prostyle Doric porch. In the north wing the hall lying behind the porch might have served as a banquet and recreation hall for the worshippers. According to the traveler Pausanias (2nd century A.D.) the hall was decorated with paintings and for this reason is conventionally known as the "Pinakotheke" (picture gallery). The south wing consists only of a porch through which the sanctuary of Athens Nike was accessed.

In the 6th century A.D., the south wing of the Propylaia was transformed into a single-aisle Christian basilica. In the Medieval times, Frankish and Florentine rulers converted the Propylaia into a palace and a tall tower was built at the south wing. During Ottoman Occupation, in 1640, the building was struck by a lightning or a cannonball which blew up the gunpowder stored there and caused extensive damage to the monument. The Medieval and later remains were removed during the excavations of the Acropolis in the 19th century, in order to reveal the Propylaia of the Classical period.

A. The shrine of Athena Hygieia and Hygieia
Southeast to the central building of the Propylaia is situated a small shrine dedicated both to Athena Hygieia (Health) and Hygieia, the daughter of Asklepeios, who was the god of medicine. The cult of Athena Hygieia on the Acropolis is dated since 6th century B.C., according to epigraphical testimonia, whereas the cult of Hygieia is dated around 420 B.C.

In the shrine, part of the rectangular altar and the cylindrical marble base of a bronze statue of Athena Hygieia made by the Athenian sculptor Pyrrhos are preserved. According to tradition (Plutarchus, Life of Perikles 13.7-8) the statue was dedicated for the salvage of a workman who had suffered an accident during the construction of the Propylaia. However, it is more likely that the demos (people of Athens) dedicated the statue in relation to the plague that stroke the city at the beginning of the Peloponnesian War (429-427 B.C.).

(Notable Places) Includes location, directions, 10 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Ilgenfritz Block

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Missouri, Pettis County, Sedalia

· 1885: William Ilgenfritz broke ground

· 1886-1920: Messerly and Meuschke dry goods

· 1915: Addition to north for F. W. Woolworth Co. dime store (1915-1969)

· 1921-1927: Chasnoffs department store

· 1927-1975: J.C. Penney department store

· 2011: Conversion to apartments by Fulson Housing

(Industry & Commerce • Man-Made Features) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Buffalo Lightship

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New York, Erie County, Buffalo
Hurricane-force winds screamed across the Great Lakes on Nov. 9 and 10, 1913, in a storm that claimed more than 250 lives and sank a dozen ships- including Light Vessel 82, one of a series of Buffalo lightships.

L.V. 82 was on station 13 miles southwest of Buffalo when the storm hit; the vessel was lost with all hands, apparently overwhelmed by the fury of high winds and breaking waves. The ship was located a year later, two miles from the Lightship Station, and was raised and returned to service.

Lost in the storm were Capt. Hugh M. Williams, Michigan; Mate Andrew Leahy, Ohio; Engineer Charles Butler, Buffalo; Assistant Engineer Cornelius Leahy, Ohio; Seaman William Jensen, Michigan; and Cook Peter Mackey, Buffalo. Only Butler's body was ever found.

Wreckage began washing ashore at the foot of Michigan Avenue after the storm. Included was a piece of wood identified as part of L.V. 82 and bearing a penciled message from the Captain to his wife: "Goodbye, Nellie, the ship is breaking up fast. Williams."

(Waterways & Vessels) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.
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