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The Tennessee Overhill Experience-From Furs to Factories

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Tennessee, Monroe County, Vonore
From the beginning of the eighteenth century until the American Revolution, Cherokee hunters and trappers traded tens of thousands of animal pelts for manufactured goods imported by licensed British traders. The first resident trader in the Overhill Towns settled at Tanasee (Tennessee) in 1711.

Unchecked harvesting of animals for commercial purposes severely depleted the Cherokees’ main sources of meat, especially white-tailed deer. In-coming trade good transformed or replaced many traditional Cherokee crafts. This “deerskin trade” soon made the Cherokees economically dependent on foreigners. It also made fortunes for middlemen and entrepreneurs in the port city of Charleston (now South Carolina), and in England, where this new wealth helped spark the Industrial Revolution.

( Inscription under the photo in the upper right)
On one day, July 14, 1716, Commissioners of the Indian Trade recorded that 21 Cherokee burden bearers brought in 418 beaverskins which were exchanged for “400 weight of gun powder, 200 and a half of shot, and 7 pieces of strouds, 1000 flints, 7 brass kettles, 20 years of half thicks.”

Ango-American trade objects from Overhill Cherokee sites: 1. Iron knife; 2. Iron ax; 3. And 4. Glass beads; 5. Bass bell; 6. Iron scissors; 7. Iron Jew’s harp; 8. Iron hoe.-Photograph from Chapman, Tellico Archeology, 1985

(Captions)
(Lower right)
This site is part of the Tennessee Overhill Heritage Trail and is an official Tennessee 200 Bicentennial Project. Interpretive signs, museums, historic sites and a guidebook tell the story of the industrial Revolution as it happened in McMinn, Monroe, and Polk Counties. For more information concerning other sites, contact the Tennessee Overhill Heritage Association at 423-263-7232

The Tennessee Overhill Experience: From Furs to Factories was funded by the Tennessee Department of Transportation; Tennessee 200, Inc; East Tennessee Foundation; and the counties of McMinn, Monroe, and Polk.

(Colonial Era • Native Americans) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.


Unicoi Turnpike Trail

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Tennessee, Monroe County, Vonore
The path now known as the Unicoi Turnpike Trail has existed for over 1,000 year. The earliest European maps of the area note the trail as a connector between Cherokee Territories and the coastal ports of Charleston and Savannah. In 1756 British soldiers hauled weapons and supplies across the trail to establish Fort Loudoun. In the early 1800’s the trail was converted into a roll road and turnpike. In 1838 over 3,000 Cherokees traveled over the Unicoi Turnpike during the Trail of Tears.

Exploring an Ancient Path
We invite you to travel through layers of history as you trace the Unicoi Turnpike Trail in Tennessee and North Carolina. Historic sites and museums along the way will illustrate the role this important transportation route played in our nation’s history. A two and one half mile section of the original roadbed at Coker Creek is open for hiking.

Map points
1. Fort Loundoun; 2. Tellico Blockhouse; 3. Sequoyah Birthplace Museum; 4. Chato and Tanasi Memorials; 5. Tellico Plains; 6. Charles Hall Museum; 7. Coker Creek; 8. Unicoi Gap; 9. Joe Brown Highway; 10. Murphy; 11. Cherokee County Historical Museum; 12. Belltown (Cane Creek) Massacre; 13. Trail of Tears; 14. Hiking Trail.

(Native Americans • Roads & Vehicles) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Cherokee Heritage Trails

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Tennessee, Monroe County, Vonore
Cherokee Heritage Trails (Tsalagi Usdi Nvnohi) wind through the mountains of North Carolina, Tennessee, and Georgia, in the heart of Cherokee homelands that once encompassed more than 140,000 square miles. Here, where Cherokee people have lived for thousands of years, visitors can explore places of myth and legend sites of villages, memorials, museums, and other places of significance in the Cherokee story.

The Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians has more than 13,000 members. Many live on or near the Qualls Boundary, tribal lands that include the town of Cherokee, North Carolina. Annual festivals and events at some trail sites offer opportunities to meet Cherokee storytellers, basket weavers, stone carvers, wood carvers, gospel singers musicians and other artists from the Eastern Band. Enjoy sampling traditional foods, watching Cherokee stickball games, and hearing the Cherokee language.

Museum of the Cherokee Indian, the main interpretive center for the Cherokee Heritage Trails, is a good place to begin. It tells the story of the Cherokee people through an award winning interactive exhibit that gives an overview of Cherokee heritage and experience. Owned and operated by tribal members, this museum is located in Cherokee, North Carolina, the main population center for the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians.

Other interpretive centers serve as starting points for many sites and one day scenic drives.

In North Carolina
• Junaluska Memorial and Museum in Robinsonville presents the Snowbird Cherokee community and the story of Junaluska.

• Scottish Tartans Museum in Franklin orients visitors to Cherokee Middle Towns locations along the Little Tennessee River and describes the relationships of the Scots and Cherokees.

• Cherokee County Historical Museum in Murphy interprets the Trail of Tears and the “leech place” of Cherokee lore.

In Tennessee
• Sequoyah Birthplace Museum in Vonore focuses on Sequoyah and the Overhill Cherokee towns.

• Red Clay State Historic Area commemorates 19th century Cherokee life and the removal of Cherokees from eastern Tennessee.

In Georgia
• New Echota State Historic Site near Calhoun interprets 19th century Cherokee renaissance and removal.

The Cherokee Heritage Trails Guidebook provides maps, photographs, stories and perspectives of Cherokee people to help visitors explore sites that cluster near these centers. Find updates on trial sites, a calendar of events, a Cherokee Artist Directory and more on the website www.cherokeeheritagetrials.org.

(Native Americans) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Early Exploration and Settlement

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Wisconsin, Eau Claire County, Eau Claire

    Native Americans developed a network of trails and routes later used by the British and French to explore the vast wilderness of the Chippewa Valley. An economy based on the trade of furs, tools, food, clothing, blankets, jewelry and decorative items, alcohol and weapons soon developed from this exploration activity. Using birch bark canoes or trails, people traveled between trading sites, often setting up villages and staying for many days to socialize through games, dance, song and shared meals.

    Among those to trade in the Chippewa Valley were Baptiste Leduc and Penasha Gegare in 1784. Three years later, Michel Cadotte brought his family, built a cabin and lived through the winter in Chippewa Falls. Further south, Louis Demarie also brought his family to live on the west bank of the Chippewa River opposite the confluence of the Eau Claire River. As a foreigner and with family to consider, he paid the Indians $300 for the right to trade and travel safely through the region.

    Early in the 1800s, interests turned from furs to the pine forests north of Eau Claire. Government treaties with the Indians made thousands of acres of timber available for logging. A new economy based on lumbering and the settlement it brought began in the Chippewa Valley. White immigrants poured into the valley. Yankees were followed by Canadian, Irish, German, Polish, Norwegian, Swedish and Slavic settlers. The population of the region (then referred to as the Chippewa Valley) exploded from 600 in 1850 to over 187,000 by 1900.

In Memory of
David C. Lien • Local Architect

(Exploration • Native Americans • Settlements & Settlers) Includes location, directions, 7 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The John Rupp House and Tannery Site

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Pennsylvania, Adams County, Gettysburg

The house on your left was constructed in 1868 for John Rupp. Described as “one of the finest on Baltimore Street, if not the town,” this Gothic Revival style “cottage” reflected the success of Rupp’s “Valuable Steam Tannery.” Located just north of the house, the tannery included a two-story tan shop, several bark sheds, a “finishing and drying shop” and a bark mill able to turn out “5000 hides a year.”

At the time of the Battle of Gettysburg, a smaller two story brick house stood here. When the Confederates captured the town, the house was caught between the lines, and Rupp sent his wife and children to safety while he remained. In a letter to his sister afterwards, he noted that “Our men occupied my porch, and the rebel men the rear of the house, and I in the cellar . . . our house is pretty well riddled.”

(Industry & Commerce • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The Wagon Hotel on Cemetery Hill

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Pennsylvania, Adams County, Gettysburg

On July 1, 1863, when the Federal 1st and 11th Corps were routed on the fields north and west of Gettysburg, the defeated soldiers hurriedly fled towards the citadel of Cemetery Hill. They passed through the town via Baltimore, Washington and Stratton streets, with Confederates in hot pursuit. Fighting occurred in the streets and alleys. Opposing sharpshooters positioned themselves in houses and other structures in the southern end of town.

The Wagon Hotel, located at the intersection of Baltimore Street and Emmitsburg Road, served as the center of the Federal skirmish line along the north face of Cemetery Hill. From this site, Union soldiers dueled with Confederate sharpshooters in the town, firing from the hotel’s windows and through holes bored in the roof. William Ker, 73rd PA., recalled a brick house to the left of this place,” where several “Confederate soldiers were killed in one window.”

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Garden Creek

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North Carolina, Haywood County, Canton
Cherokee villages and mounds 1/3 mile west a key site for archaeologists. Occupied from 8000 B.C. to 1600s A.D.

(Anthropology • Native Americans) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The George Spangler Farm Civil War Hospital Site

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Pennsylvania, Adams County, Gettysburg
From Home to Hospital
About the George Spangler Farm

The George Spangler Farm Civil War Hospital Site is one of the most intact Civil War field hospitals used during the battle of Gettysburg. When George Spangler bought the farm in 1848, he had no idea that civil war would erupt thirteen years later and destroy his farmland and crops. For five weeks, from July to August 1863, his family’s homestead was occupied by the Union army’s Eleventh Corps who utilized the buildings and fields as a hospital for some 1,900 wounded Union and Confederate soldiers.

Throughout the years, the Spangler farm has witnessed many changes. Although you can now walk in the footsteps of the Spangler family and soldiers who were treated here, a great deal of work has been done to turn back the years and reveal the property as it was in 1863. The legacy of the George Spangler Farm has been secured through generous donations to the Gettysburg Foundation. The task now is to write the next chapter in the farm’s history and ensure its preservation for centuries to come. As you reflect on the stories of the many people who shaped the history of this place, please consider joining the effort to preserve and rehabilitate this historic site for future generations.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Locust Field Cemetery

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North Carolina, Haywood County, Canton
The first Locust Old Fields Baptist Church was established here in 1803. It was among the first churches established west of Asheville. Although the original building no longer stands, it served the small community here for many years as a house of worship and a place of education. During the Civil War, it was a muster site for the local 112th Beaverdam Militia Regiment and a campground, according to local tradition.

In September 1863, when Union forces captured Cumberland Gap, about three or four hundred 62nd North Carolina Infantry soldiers escaped. Many of these men were Haywood County natives and returned to their homes here. They joined other members of the regiment who were here on furlough and camped at Pigeon River, the name given to Canton before the small town was officially incorporated nearly thirty years later. Although few records exist of exactly where the soldiers camped, Locust Old Fields Church was likely the location.

The church and cemetery were again used as a Confederate encampment during the winter of 1864-1865, when Col. James Robert Love and six companies of Thomas’s Legion camped at Locust Old Fields Church. They later took park in some of the last fighting of the war in Asheville and Waynesville in April and May 1865.

Today, as one of Haywood County’s oldest cemeteries, Locust Field Cemetery serves as a reminder of the county’s role in the Civil War. Dozens of Confederate veterans are interred here.

(captions)
(lower left) The first Locust Old Fields Church served as an encampment and muster site during the Civil War. Courtesy of the Canton Area Historical Museum
(upper right) Col. James Robert Love, Thomas’s Legion, and his men wintered on Locust Old Fields Church in 1864-1865 before fighting in some of the last battles of the Civil War. Courtesy North Carolina Office of Archives and History

(Cemeteries & Burial Sites • Churches, Etc. • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Battery Porter

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North Carolina, Buncombe County, Asheville
Near the end of the Civil War in 1865, Confederate Battery Porter was positioned uphill to your right on Stony Hill, at that time the highest point in Asheville. The battery included four 12-pounder field pieces known as Napoleons, a model 1857 howitzer named for the French emperor Louis Napoleon, who had promoted its development. The smoothbore cannon could fire a solid or exploding shell almost a mile. It was the workhorse artillery piece for both the Union and Confederate armies.

After the April 6 Battle of Asheville, the battery was ordered to Greenville, South Carolina, but it was captured outside Hendersonville, North Carolina, on April 23. Union Gen. Alvan C. Gillem reported the capture of “4 pieces and 70 of its infantry guard,” and commended “Lt. Col. (Frederick) Slater for his distinguished gallantry in charging and capturing the enemy’s battery.” The next day, when Gillem negotiated a truce with Confederate Gen. James G. Martin, he reported that “General Martin demanded the restoration of the battery captured the preceding day, basing his claim on the fact that the capture had been made after the date of the agreement between Generals Sherman and Johnson, through the existence might have been unknown to him and myself. Of course I declined restoring the battery.”

Gillem sent the guns back through Asheville to Greenville, Tennessee where they arrived on Apirl 27. Forester A. Sondley, local resident, later wrote, “The people of Asheville had the mortification of seeing the guns of Porter’s battery that had guarded the crest of what is now Battery Park hill, just captured, driven through by (the First U.S. Colored Heavy Artillery).”

(sidebar)Br> Stony Hill was called Battery Porter Hill after the war, but was renamed Battery Park when a hotel opened there in 1886. E.W. Grove reduced the height of the hill by 70 feet in 1824 when he built today’s Battery Park Hotel. To envision the height of the former hill, count to the seventh floor of Battery Park Hotel.

(captions)
(lower left) Combat artist Edwin Forbes sketched this Model 1857 Napoleon in Aug. 1863 - Courtesy Library of Congress
(upper center) Asheville, with Battery Park to right - Courtesy North Carolina Collection, Pack Memorial Library, Asheville
(lower right) Battery Park Hotel - Courtesy North Carolina Collection, Pack Memorial Library, Asheville

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Asheville's Enslaved People

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North Carolina, Buncombe County, Asheville
When the war began, more than 15 percent of Buncombe County’s residents were enslaved people. James Patton housed slaves behind his Eagle Hotel (straight ahead), where they worked as waiter, maids, grooms, cooks, and trail guides. Three blocks to your right, enslaved people lived and worked in James Smith’s Buck Hotel, store, stable, tannery, and blacksmith shop. Slaves worked in the Confederate rifle factory that stood to your right.

Fearing that slaves would join the Union army occupying eastern North Carolina, Gov. Zebulon B. Vance decreed, “It is the duty of all slave-owners immediately to remove (to the west their slaves able to bear arms.” The Confederate government issued a similar order for coastal South Carolina. As white refugees and their slaves streamed into Asheville, the enslaved population doubled, causing housing and food shortages. Some slaves here escaped to Union-occupied Tennessee. Others aided Union fugitives, providing food, clothing, and directions. One slave tried to help a New York cavalryman escape.

White Asheville residents reported that the slaves welcomed Union Gen. George Stoneman’s soldiers as liberators on April 25, 1865. Fannie Patton wrote, “(W)e saw that the troops were going to move and also that a great many Negroes were going to leave with them. About 20 of ours went off, which, with those that had gone a few days before, made 29.” Mary Taylor Brown wrote, “All of Mrs. J.W. Patton’s servants left her and went with the Yankees. …They even took her beautiful carriage and, crowding into it, drove off in full possession.” Cornelia Henry wrote he husband, “You have no idea how big the (Negroes) feel. Ole Sam and Lena there is no difference, but take care for the others. Even Rose feels her freedom.”

(captions)
(lower left) Eagle Hotel - Courtesy North Carolina Collection, Pack Memorial Library, Asheville
(upper right) Asheville’s newly freed population lined up to register to vote on Public Square, two blocks to your right. Harper’s Magazine, 1867

(African Americans • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

USS Juneau (CL-52) Memorial

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Alaska, Juneau Borough, Juneau

Panel 1:
Rendering of the cruiser USS Juneau CL-52
Lest We Forget
The Naval Battle of Guadalcanal was as ferocious
and decisive as any battle of World War II. It
was not won cheaply. The night action of Friday
the thirteenth of November, 1942 was the last day
of life for eight ships and hundreds of sailors
including the USS Juneau CL-52. Juneau was in the
thick of the battle until an enemy torpedo knocked
her out of action. Retiring from the battle an
enemy submarine took Juneau in her sights and
at 11:01 another torpedo found its mark. The cruiser
disintegrated instantaneously and completely.
All but 10 of her crew of 700 perished including
the five Sullivan brothers.

Panels 2 and 3:
Renderings of the USS Juneau with the names of all crew members listed for November 13, 1942.

(Disasters • War, World II • Waterways & Vessels) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

John Wright Stanly House

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North Carolina, Craven County, New Bern
This house was the birthplace of two men who fought on opposing sides during the Civil War: Edward Stanly, the Unionist military governor of North Carolina, and Confederate Gen. Lewis Addison Armistead, who was mortally wounded during the Battle of Gettysburg. Stanly, born here in 1810, accepted the post of military governor from President Abraham Lincoln in May 1862, in the hope that he might lead his hometown and state back into the Union. He was unsuccessful and resigned in March 1863. Armistead, Stanley’s nephew, was born here in 1817. He fell at Gettysburg on July 3, 1863, during Gen. James Longstreet’s attack on the Federal position atop Cemetery Ridge (“Pickett’s Charge”) and died two days later.

After Union forces defeated Confederate troops in the Battle of New Bern on March 14, 1862, this house was selected as the headquarters of Union commander Gen. Ambrose E. Burnside. Later in the war, the house served as headquarters for Stanly General Hospital (later called Foster General Hospital) and as a convent for the Sisters of Mercy, Roman Catholic nuns who worked as nurses in the hospital.

John Wright Stanly built his house between 1779 and 1783. During the Civil War, it stood on it original site at the southwest corner of New and Middle Streets (current site of a 1930s Federal building and parking lot). The house was moved in 1932 and moved again to this site in 1966.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Jones House

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North Carolina, Craven County, New Bern
This house was built about 1809 for John Jones, owner of a local turpentine distillery, and the west wing was added about 1820. After the U.S. Army defeated Confederate troops in the Battle of New Bern on March 14, 1862, and occupied the town, military authorities used the house as a jail for Confederate Sympathizers. According to local tradition, Union soldiers confined the notorious Confederate spy Emeline Pigott here. An ardent supporter of the Confederate cause who had served as a nurse, Pigott smuggled confidential military information, personal letters, clothing, food, and other items through Union lines by hiding them underneath her hoop skirts. When arrested, she carried a heavy load of contraband, but Federal officials never convicted her of a crime. She was released from jail and lived out the remainder of her life at her home in Carteret County, near Beaufort.

(War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Nikwasi Mound

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North Carolina, Macon County, Franklin
You are standing on land that has been part of a town for about three thousand years. This mound was the spiritual, political, and physical center of the Cherokee town of Nikwasi. A council house or town house on top of the mound held the sacred fire, and everyone gathered there to hear news, make decisions, dance, and participate in ceremonies. Surrounding the mound were about one hundred houses, a field for playing stickball, and a dance ground, as well as hundreds of acres of crops, orchards, and gardens.

The Cherokee dominated the southern Appalachians for thousands of years. When Alexander Cuming visited Nikwasi in 1730, the Cherokees had men and women leaders in autonomous towns that functioned democratically. Cuming called a council here that was attended by more than two thousand representatives from Cherokee towns. Cuming chose an Emperor, and took a Cherokee delegation to London. In 1761 the British, former allies of the Cherokee, destroyed Nikwasi. After the Cherokees rebuilt, the Americans destroyed it in 1776. The Cherokees rebuilt again and lived here until this area was taken by the Treaty of 1819.

A Cherokee legend tells that spirit warriors came out of the mound to help defend the Cherokee against an attack when the Cherokee men were away hunting. The legend goes on to say that the spirit warriors also saved the town of Franklin from destruction during the Civil War.

The Nikwasi mound is one of the largest surviving mounds in the original Cherokee territory of 140,000 square miles. In 1946, the schoolchildren of Macon County saved their pennies and bought the mound through the Macon County Historical Society to save it from development. It is now owned by the Town of Franklin.

(Anthropology • Colonial Era • Man-Made Features • Native Americans) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Welcome to The Public Market

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Washington, King County, Seattle


Welcome to downtown Seattle's neighborhood market. Pike Place Market is the city's center for fresh, local produce, specialty food and small independent businesses. Established in 1907 to connect citizens and farmers, the Market continues its "Meet the Producer" tradition with a year-round farmers market, owner-operated bakeries, fish markets, butcher shops, produce stands and specialty food stores. The nine-acre historic district is also home to more than 200 craftspeople, a wide range of unique shops and services, low-income housing and four social service agencies.

Market History
As Seattle's population boomed in the early 20th century, the demand for fresh food grew. Farmers sold their produce to wholesalers who inflated the prices charged to the public. In 1906-1907, produce prices soared, causing public outcry. In response, Seattle City Councilman Thomas Revelle proposed a public market place where farmers could sell directly to citizens. On August 17, 1907, the public market opened. The first farmer sold out of produce within minutes and a lasting legacy was born.

Meet the Producer
The opportunity to "Meet the Producer" is the cornerstone of Pike Place Market. From apples to zucchini, our farmers grow everything they sell and take pride in their produce. This tradition also extends to the bakers, butchers, fishmongers, cheesemakers and specialty food purveyors who are dedicated to their craft and are happy to share their knowledge. Meet the artisans in the crafts market and admire the materials and skill applied to each handcrafted item.

Discover the Market
The Market offers endless opportunities to explore and experience. Stop by a produce or farm stand and sample fruit in season. Meet the artisans of the crafts market. Learn about the catch of the day from the fishmongers. Sample new flavors in specialty and ethnic food stores and restaurants. Inhale the aroma of freshly baked bread. Discover delightful treasures in the many independent shops. A community unto itself within downtown Seattle, the Market winds through alleys, streets, stairways and corridors. Take time to wander and let the Market amaze, delight and inspire you.

[Left sidebar highlights]
Market Clock

Installed in 1928, the neon clock and Public Market sign is an enduring icon of Pike Place Market.

Gum Wall
One of the Market's quirkier attractions, the wall was started in the early '90s by Market Theater patrons.

Original Starbucks
The coffee giant opened as a small independent coffee shop in 1971.

Historic District
The district encompasses nine acres, from Pike St. to Viginia St. and 1st Ave. to Western Ave. Explore the many streets and corners of the Market neighborhood!

Market Mystery
The former location of a mortuary, brothel and part of a cemetery, the Market is home to many characters, tales and even a ghost or two.

(Agriculture • Industry & Commerce • Man-Made Features) Includes location, directions, 9 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Henry Martin

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Virginia, University of Virginia


Born in slavery at Monticello on July 4, 1826, the day of Thomas Jefferson's death, Henry Martin worked at the University in various capacities from about 1847 until his retirement in 1910. In late 1868 or early 1869, he was employed as head janitor and bell ringer and continued in that position for the remainder of his time at the University. The University bell hung on the south porch of the Rotunda, but it was destroyed in a fire in 1895. The Chapel bell, hung in the steeple adjacent to this marker, served as its replacement.

Henry Martin rang the bell at dawn to awaken the students, and rang it during the day to mark the hours and the beginning and ending of class periods. He was beloved by generations of faculty, students, and alumni, and he remembered them all when they returned for visits.

(African Americans • Education • Man-Made Features) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Stephen Tyng Mather

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Virginia, Prince George County, Petersburg National Battlefield


He laid the foundation of the National Park Service, defining and establishing the policies under which its areas shall be developed and conserved unimpaired for future generations. There will never come an end to the good that he has done.

(Notable Persons) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Smith-McDowell House

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North Carolina, Buncombe County, Asheville
After John Brown’s raid on Harpers Ferry, Virginia, in 1859, new militia companies were formed in the South. Businessman William W. McDowell, whose wife acquired this house from her father’s and brother’s estates, raised a company called the Buncombe Riflemen. After the war began in 1861, the unit entered Confederate service as Co. E, 1st North Carolina Infantry, under Col. Daniel H. Hill. McDowell led his company during the first land engagement of the conflict in present-day Virginia, the Battle of Big Bethel, on June 10, 1861. The 1st North Carolina played a key role in repulsing the 5th New York Infantry’s attack on the Confederate left flank and was largely credited with the victory.

Soon afterward, McDowell fell ill and on July 2 was furloughed home. In the summer 1862, he raised a company (the Buncombe Farmers) that was incorporated into the 60th North Carolina Infantry under McDowell’s brother, Col. Joseph A. McDowell. William McDowell served in the regiment first as a captain and then as major until after the Battle of Stone’s River in January 1863. Back home by 1864, McDowell became a Confederate treasury officer for the sale of government bonds. After the war, he continued in business until ill health forced his retirement in 1870.

One of McDowell’s slaves, George Avery, a 19-year-old blacksmith, enlisted with McDowell’s encouragement in the 40th United States Colored Troops in April 1865. The unit guarded railroads in East Tennessee and mustered out in February 1866. Avery returned to Buncombe County and became superintendent of the South Asheville Colored Cemetery, which was first used as McDowell slave cemetery.

(sidebar)
James McConnell Smith, an early entrepreneur and one of the wealthiest and most influential men in antebellum Asheville, constructed this Federal and Greek Revival-style dwelling about 1840. His daughter, Sarah Lucinda Smith, married William Wallace McDowell and acquired the house. It remained in the McDowell family until 1883.

(captions)
(lower left) Receipt bearing McDowell’ signature, June 23, 1864
(upper center) Capt. Wm. W. McDowell, Buncombe Riflemen, ca. 1859
(lower center) George Avery, Feb. 18, 1917, age 71
(upper right) 1st North Carolina Infantry battle flag

(African Americans • Industry & Commerce • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Private George Avery

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North Carolina, Buncombe County, Asheville
George Avery, a 19-year-old enslaved blacksmith, joined Co. D, 40th United States Colored Troops, in Greeneville, Tennessee, in 1865. According to local tradition, his master, Confederate Maj. William W. McDowell, sent Avery to enlist for a post-war pension. Avery’s enlistment, however, corresponded with the arrival of Union Gen. George Stoneman’s raiders, who liberated Asheville’s enslaved population in April 1865. They recruited about forty “Negroes who were following the column” and took them to Greeneville.

Avery’s regiment guarded railroads in Tennessee for the rest of the war. Although Avery had enlisted for three years, he and the regiment were mustered out on April 25, 1866. Avery returned to Asheville, where the McDowells provided him with land, lumber to construct a house, and a job as the cemetery’s caretaker that he kept until his death at the age of 96. His tombstone (three stones, midway up the hill) proudly acknowledges his Union service.

This is the oldest African American public cemetery in western North Carolina. The McDowell family established a slave cemetery here in the mid-1800s. After the war, caretaker George Avery received $1 for digging each grave, and McDowell’s widow received $1 for the plot if the family could afford it. After her death in 1905, St. John “A” Baptist and St Mark A.M.E. Churches took over maintenance.

The cemetery had no written plan or map. Avery tracked grave locations by memory. The earliest graves were marked with wooden planks that are long gone. Boulders or rough-shaped stones mark many graves. The cemetery closed in 1943. Today, South Asheville Cemetery Association volunteers maintain this site. Archaeologists have documented 1,921 graves.

Sarah Gudger lived on this street when interviewed for the WPA Slave Narrative Project in May 1937. She is buried here. “When the war come…the darkies didn’t know what it was all about. …One day I never forget, we look about and see soldiers marching; look like the whole valley full of them. I thought, ‘Poor helpless crafters, just going away to get killed.” The drums were beating and the fifes a playing. …Oh, glory, it was a sight.”

(captions)
(upper left) George Avery, Feb. 18, 1917, age 71 Smith-McDowell House Museum
(lower center) George Avery’s enlistment paper Smith-McDowell House Museum
(lower right) Sarah Gudger Courtesy Library of Congress

(African Americans • Cemeteries & Burial Sites • War, US Civil) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.
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