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The Mormon Pioneer Trail / A Warm Welcome on the Nishnabotna

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near Lewis, Iowa.

Beginning in February of 1846, the vanguard of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (the Mormons) struggled across southern Iowa on the way to their "New Zion" in the Rocky Mountains.

The trek from Nauvoo, Illinois, to Kanesville (Council Bluffs), Iowa, tested the endurance of humans, animals, and equipment. The frozen landscape of an Iowa February soon turned into a thawing mixture of nearly impassable mud and muck. Their unshakable faith and determination sustained them, however, and thousands of men, women, and children arrived at the Missouri River, having completed this first portion of the journey west under extremely difficult conditions.

After wintering in the present-day Omaha/Council Bluffs district, the Saints continued across Nebraska and Wyoming to the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. Today, a marked 1,624 mile long auto tour route closely parallels this historic route.

The Mormon Pioneers struggled across the Iowa prairies, traversed the Great Plains of Nebraska, climbed the backbone of the continent at South Pass, Wyoming, and descended the Pacific slope of the Rocky Mountains to the Great Salt Lake Valley of Utah.
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Deprived of their traditional homelands in the Great Lakes region, 2,500 Pottawattamie/Ottawa/Chippewa Indians were moved to southwest Iowa in 1837. About 450 of these refugees settled the village of Mi-au-mise (me-ah-mees) on the hillside to the west. They lived in this village near the Nishnabotna River until their final removal to Indian Country in northeast Kansas in 1847.

The Mormon Pioneers crossed the Nishnabotna River in the valley below you, in early June of 1846. At first, Indian leaders demanded payment for passing near their village and for the grass the emigrant’s [sic] stock would eat. When the Mormons pointed out the utility of the bridge they had built, the Indians consented to let the wagons pass.

Some of the members of this exiled tribe were educated and cultivated people, and there were friendly sessions in which Indians and Mormons exchanged opinions about the United States.

These excerpts, selected from thousands of faded Pioneer journals, tell us how it was on the trail for the Mormon Pioneers, who in spite of daily toil, hardships, and death, left us a thousand windows into the past.

Orson Pratt, June 14, 1846
“…came on a few miles and passed an Indian village. Scores of their men, women and children collected around us as we were crossing the two forks of the Nishnabotna river.”

William Clayton, June 10, 1846
“…arrived at their village, which is situated on a very beautiful ridge skirted by timber and beautiful rolling prairie. It seemed that the whole village turned out, men, women, and children, some on horses and many on foot. Their musicians came and played while we passed them…we were perfectly surrounded by Indians apparently from curiosity and friendship.”

Eliza R. Snow, August 21, 1846
“About 5 in the eve, we came in sight of an Indian Settlement of about 100 wigwams of the Pottawattamie tribe. When [with]in about a mile of the first huts, we were amused to see them riding at full speed to meet us–bringing sacks of corn & beans which they were very anxious to sell for money or “swap” for meat baskets &c. They were all pretty well cloth’d & well decorated–talk English some–appear happy & very friendly.

(Native Americans • Settlements & Settlers • Roads & Vehicles • Waterways & Vessels) Includes location, directions, 6 photos, GPS coordinates, map.


The Ceiba, Guatemala's National Tree

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, Guatemala.

Ceiba Arbol Nacional
Ceiba pentandra
Acuerdo gubernativo 8 de marzo 1955
Direccion General Forestal
Ministerio de Agricultura

English translation:
The Ceiba, Guatemala’s National Tree
Ceiba pentandra
Named by Governmental Decree on March 8, 1955
Forestry Department, Ministry of Agriculture

(Horticulture & Forestry) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Fighting Slavery – Aiding Runaways

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near Lewis, Iowa.

Iowa assumed an important place in America’s Underground Railroad history when Missourians closed off the Missouri River to Kansas bound settlers. For Iowa residents involved in helping runaways, the work was a dangerous and illegal business. Most in the state wanted to avoid the slavery issue, while a dedicated minority saw Iowa standing forth as a beacon of anti-slavery hope.

John Brown’s Last Iowa Trip
John Brown, with twelve men, women, and children escaping slavery from Missouri, plus his own men, stopped near here February 13, 1859 at the farm of his cousin Oliver Mills. Located one-half mile north of Lewis, the Mills place had become a frequent Underground Railroad stop for runaways from slavery in western Missouri via Kansas and Nebraska during the late 1850s. In these quietly conducted activities Mills worked in concert with others locally, including Rev. George B. Hitchcock and David A. Barnett living just east of Atlantic at Grove City.

John Brown’s party rested overnight at Mills before heading to Barnett’s at Grove City on their three month trek toward Detroit where they would cross by ferry to freedom in Windsor, Canada.

Ten months later Brown was dead, captured and hung after the former Kansas fighter and his band (including four Iowans) on October 16 1859 failed in their assault on the federal arsenal at Harpers Ferry, Virginia. The bold action ignited great controversy and became a catalyst leading to Civil War.

Brown’s action as part of Kansas Troubles
The Kansas-Nebraska struggle began in 1854 over whether the areas would be slave or free states. This soon made western Iowa an important staging area for free state forces and also for those engaged in aiding fugitives escape enslavement. In the forefront of antislavery and Underground Railroad activity during these years were persons of Congregational, Quaker, Baptist, and Wesley Methodist faith, but in southwest Iowa, it was Congregationalists such as Rev. George B. Hitchcock that assumed the lead in antislavery activity.

The northward movement of persons fleeing enslavement in western Missouri often brought them first to a rural Iowa hamlet known as Civil Bend, just upriver from Nebraska City. From there they would be directed to Tabor (Fremont County) and then, helped by persons from the Malvern and Hastings areas of Mills County, reach the doorsteps of Rev. Hitchcock or Oliver Mills in the Lewis vicinity. After that their destination pointed eastward toward Chicago and Canada.

The Kansas-Nebraska struggle underscored the nation’s looming North-South conflict and the important place shared by the border west states in the events leading to Civil War. Iowa became the leading route of transit to Kansas and assumed an important place in America’s Underground Railroad history when Missourians closed off the Missouri River to Kansas bound settlers. For Iowa residents involved in helping runaways, the work was a dangerous and illegal business. Most of the state wanted to avoid the slavery issue and keep black settlement out of the state, while a dedicated minority saw Iowa standing forth as a beacon of anti-slavery hope.

The outward flow of runaway slaves spread tensions in border states while the larger Kansas conflict enraged the North, killed the Whig Party, made the Republican Party, split the Democratic Party and guaranteed Lincoln’s election.

Few places survive to remind us of those early turbulent times in Iowa. One is the Rev. George B. Hitchcock house–a National Historic Landmark–remembered for its service as a station point of passage for escaping slaves.

[Image of] Oliver Mills [from] Andreas 1875 Atlas of Iowa

(Settlements & Settlers • Abolition & Underground RR) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railroad Depot

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Council Bluffs, Iowa.

has been placed on the
National Register
of Historic Places

by the United States
Department of the Interior

(Railroads & Streetcars • Man-Made Features) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

An Almost Forgotten History

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Fort Bliss, Texas.
Just one year after the Civil War, Congress passed an act which created two "experimental" cavalry regiments for service on the western frontiers. African Americans, most of whom had only recently been slaves, put on blue uniforms and filled the ranks of the 9th and 10th U.S. Cavalry.

These men fought hard from Canada to Mexico and from the Rockies to the Mississippi to keep the peace and protect settlers. Yet the very people they strove to protect despised them - for their uniform, the color of their skin, or both. In the field and in garrison, these troopers proved to be amazingly effective, cheerful and loyal, and often showed great courage. Corporal Ross's heroism, depicted on this monument, is but one example of their acknowledged bravery and devotion to duty.

The 9th and 10th Cavalry regiments served faithfully from 1867 to 1943, when the U.S. Army deactivated them. Troops from these regiments served here at Fort Bliss, and at Forts Quitman, Davis, Stanton, and Selden from 1867 to 1891.

Until recently, whenever the winning of the West was discussed, the role of the "Buffalo Soldier" was largely overlooked. Today, Americans are learning how these troops helped settle the frontier and defended the United States both at home and abroad.

It is said that their Indian adversaries called the men of the 9th and 10th "Buffalo Soldiers" out of respect for their courage and fighting prowess. These black gtroopers service did not end with the close of the frontier wars. They distinguished themselves on Cuba's San Juan Hill with Teddy Roosevelt and with Gen. John J. "Black Jack" Pershing in the Mexican Punitive Expedition of 1916, which included a battle at Carrizal, Chihuahua, Mexico.

Buffalo Soldiers fought rustlers Indians, and badmen. They also strung telegraph wires, built roads, dug wells and constructed and filled wayside water tanks.

(War, Spanish-American • War, Mexican-American • Wars, US Indian • African Americans) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Buffalo Soldier Memorial of El Paso

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Fort Bliss, Texas.
"The Errand of Corporal Ross"
While on Campaign in the Guadalupe Mountains, Corporal John Ross of I Troop, 9th Calvary, was tasked to take a back trail and bring up the supply wagons that had lagged behind. Enroute to picking up the wagons, CPL Ross was set upon by three Mescalero Apaches who lay in wait. CPL Ross dropped his reins, grabbed his rifle, and spurred his horse on. He dispensed with his attackers and then continued on his errand bringing the wagons forward.

(Wars, US Indian • African Americans) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Road of Remembrance

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near Middletown, Ohio.
“Lest we forget” the trees along this road were planted by the people of the community to form this Road of Remembrance in honor of the Men of Middletown who served their country during the World War 1916- 1918

(War, World I) Includes location, directions, 5 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

The Titus Farm

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South Brunswick, New Jersey.
For 53 years, Thomas Titus and his descendants farmed this plot of land. Once an enslaved person, his remains lie here in an unmarked grave, as if keeping watch over the old farmstead.

Gerardus Beekman, the slave holder, was a member of the prominent Beekman family of New York and New Jersey. In 1814, Beekman penned his final wishes, “I will that my negro man Thomas shall have freedom after serving my heirs, or any man he shall choose, so long as a time to make fifteen years from the first day of March Eighteen Hundred and Two.” Although not yet a free man, Thomas and his wife, Sarah Tenbroeck, purchased a small farm for $50 from Ferdinand Van Dyke, in August 1817. On August 3rd, 1818, the official manumission was written and filed at the county clerk’s office in New Brunswick.

Thomas farmed this land for the next 32 years. Oats, wheat, potatoes and corn were cultivated near an orchard of peach trees.

Thomas and his wife Sarah also raised twelve children, six of whom were born after the family’s manumission. On July 21st 1849, Thomas Titus died of the Plaque at 64 years of age.

(Agriculture • African Americans) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.


Spotswood’s 1832 Camden & Amboy Railroad Memorial

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Spotswood, New Jersey.
The Camden & Amboy Railroad reached Spotswood in 1832 being built from Bordentown to South Amboy.

Based on British practice, stone “sleepers” were used to act as the foundation for the rails; quarries near New York’s Sing Sing prison were contracted to supply the stone blocks. Iron spikes, secured into holes drilled into the stone secured the tracks. The heaving of the stone in the spring thaw prompted a decision to use wooden ties as a base for the tracks and the “sleepers” were gradually replaced.

Spotswood’s role in the region’s growth can easily be traced to the presence of the rail line. Materials in and products outbound encouraged growth and passenger service enabled residents to travel in either direction whether to nearby stations or long-distance to nearby metropolitan areas.

Grant funding has been provided by the Middlesex County Cultural and Heritage Commission, Middlesex County Board of Chosen Freeholders through a grant provided by New Jersey Historical Commission, a Division of Dept. of State.

(Railroads & Streetcars) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Siuslaw River Bridge: Construction & Design

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Florence, Oregon.

Constructing Over the Siuslaw
The Siuslaw River Bridge incorporates Art Deco, Moderne, Gothic, and Egyptian influence that were important to McCullough. Due to its ability to open at the center, the Siuslaw River Bridge best represents McCullough's artistic and technical ingenuity.

Construction on the Siuslaw River Bridge began on August 5, 1934, and cost a total of $527,068.67 to complete. Over 200,000 man-hours of labor were utilized during the 20 months of construction. On average, 140 men were employed 30 hours per week during construction. Single men could only work on this bridge project for six months, while married men could work on the project for up to two years. When the Siuslaw River Bridge opened on March 31, 1936, the local newspaper reported that construction had utilized "thousands of pounds of steel, millions of cement, and oodles of lumber."

When the Siuslaw River Bridge was being built, it was known for its precision workmanship. The south section was built first and then the north section. In the original specifications, 1 3/8 inches were allowed between the leaves of the bascule in the closed position. When it was first closed, that distance was only off by 1/72 of an inch!

(sidebar)
Conde B. McCullough
The Man Behind the Bridge

Conde B. McCullough designed the Siuslaw River Bridge, along with four others, as part of the Coast Bridge Project. His bridges were designed to be efficient, economical, and elegant. Today, McCullough's bridges are icons of the Oregon coast.

McCullough was a bridge engineer and served as the State Bridge Engineer for the Oregon State Highway Department from 1919 to 1935. He served under President Franklin D. Roosevelt beginning in 1935 to consult on bridges in Central America as part of the Inter-American Highway System. When he returned to Oregon, McCullough became the state assistant highway engineer and served in that position until his death in 1946.

McCullough preferred to work with reinforced concrete and he pioneered numerous innovations in working with it. He is famous for his tied arch, also called the bowstring arch, which practically holds itself and does not require massive supports on either end.

Through his pioneering of unusual design and construction techniques, as well as his books and technical journals sharing what he learned, McCullough contributed to the greater knowledge of bridge engineering in principle and in practice.

(Man-Made Features • Waterways & Vessels • Bridges & Viaducts) Includes location, directions, 9 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

North Side of Square

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Athens, Alabama.
The second Confederate Monument was erected in June 1912. This view shows the intersection of Market and Marion streets.

The 4-H'ers parade their cattle on the courthouse lawn in 1959. Judges were on hand to give a blue ribbon for the best stock.

E.T. Gray & Son with a new shipment of shoes in the 1920s. This store was later known as Gray & Holt. Note the Lyle Photography Studio sign.

In 1909 the first Confederate Monument was placed in the middle of the street but was moved to the courthouse lawn, when the city paved the street. In November 1911 the Monument was moved to the city cemetery to watch over the Confederate Circle of Soldiers.

North side of square-1939. New Way Grocery with Gulf gas sign, two unnamed stores and Crutcher-White Hardware.

A series of fires around the square destroyed many of the business here between 1882 and 1902. This photograph shows that the north side had recovered and was back in business by 1904.

The courthouse was not only used for official business, but also served as a gathering place for activities such as this 1931 auction of a buggy and hay rake. In 1863 Colonel Wallace Campbell of the 110th U.S. Colored Infantry surrendered to General Nathan Bedford Forrest on the lawn. A granite stone marked the site. Notice the bricked street and views of the north side of the square.

Views of Market Street.

(Industry & Commerce • War, US Civil • Roads & Vehicles) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Faces of Market Street

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Athens, Alabama.
From the 1850s to the 1970s, the Louisville & Nashville Depot was located between Market and Washington streets. The building has been used as a dress ship, a photographer's studio, and in 2004 was remodeled for the Limestone County Archives.

The L&N Railroad built this new depot in 1907, replacing the old one which had been constructed in 1858.

Because of a narrow tunnel and steep grades between Athens and Nashville, the L&N Railroad began a project in 1912 called Lewisburg & Northern Division. This was a new line constructed to run through Lewisburg to Columbia and Athens. It was completed in 1914., and the first train to use this route was greeted with a parade marching from the depot down Market Street.

In 1899 the Raisler Corner building was sold to the Hendricks Brothers. "This location quickly became known as "Hendricks Corner."
The Pinnacle Group renovated the Hendricks Corner building in 1995 to look as nearly as possible as it had in the early 1900s.

In 1940s view of the busy intersection of Market and Marion streets. Only on Marion and Jefferson streets were spaces marked for parking cars in the middle of the street.

The Excelsior Elector and Steam Laundry Company was located on East Market Street.

The Gulf Service Station was one of the last full service stations in Athens. It was owned by Jack Park and Louis Speaks and was located at the corner of Market and Clinton streets.

The big spring provided water for Athens before 1897, when the first water system was built. In the 1930s a concrete cover was placed over the spring, but was removed in the 1980s.

One of the many businesses that occupied the Hendricks Corner Building during the 1970s.

The American Missionary Association founded Trinity School in 1865 to teach former slaves. Located on Market Street near the present depot, the school burned in 1881 but was quickly replaced with a brick building. In 1907 the school burned again. It was rebuilt on Coleman Hill on the site of Fort Henderson, a Civil War fort.

(Education • Industry & Commerce • War, US Civil • Railroads & Streetcars • African Americans • Architecture) Includes location, directions, 4 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Scenes From Hobbs & Market Streets

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Athens, Alabama.
The First Baptist Church, organized in 1824, built a meeting house in 1826. A brick structure was erected in 1831 but was replaced with the above building in 1909. This church located on the north west corner of Clinton and Hobbs streets, was later razed and a family life center was built there. The church's present worship center built in 1995, is located on the opposite corner of Clinton and Hobbs streets.

The Athens Masonic Lodge, patterned after the Huntsville lodge of 1823, is believed to have been the first brick structure in the city. Located at the corner of Hobbs and Monroe streets, it was notable as a rare example in Alabama of "Georgian Gothic" architecture. The brick mason was James Brundidge and the architect was Hiram H. Higgins. The floor plan included a center hall, with a large meeting room occupying two-thirds of the second floor. This room was used by private and public schools and occasionally by religious congregations. The Masons used the lodge until 1912, when it was converted into a residence, complete with the addition of a brick porch across the south side. The building was razed in 1968.

Photographer W.V. Haggard climbed into the steeple of the Limestone County Courthouse to photograph the blizzard of 1894. Points of interest are the steeple of the old Methodist Church and the C.W. Raisler home next door. To its right is the Raisler Saloon and Drug Store. East of the church is the 1826 Masonic Hall.

The MacLin-Hobbs-Horton home was built in 1849. Benjamin MacLin was said to have the finest home in Athens. General James A. Garfield, who would become President Garfield in 1881, stayed in the home while participating in the court marshal proceedings against General Ivan Turchin for his actions in the 1862 sack of Athens Judge James E. Horton later bought the home and, in 1934 had it dismantled, moved, and re-erected in modified form on his plantation at Greenbrier, where it stands today.

The former Methodist Church building (ca. 1835) was one of Alabama's first brick houses of worship. A new building was completed in 1925. The old one was sold and renovated for the Ritz Theater.

In 1971 Buddy and Lib Gilbert purchased the Ritz Theater building. They restored the building's facade as closely as practicable to its original form - that of the 1835 Methodist Church. Gilbert's Furniture Company closed in 1989.

The Ritz Theater offered a free movie to any child who could pay the admission price of six RC Cola tops. This 1966 view of Marion Street shows the stores of Johnson's Beauty College, the Ritz Theater, the Ritz Coffee Shop and McMeans Furniture Store.

The Marion Street Church of Christ congregation purchased this building from Gilbert family in 1990, originally built in 1835 s the First Methodist Church. After renovation was completed it was again suitable for worship. The building to the left of the church housed the Southern Bell Telephone Company and the Limestone Democrat.

After the Hobbs home was removed, the lot remained vacant for several years. In 1955 the site was donated by the Horton family to the City of Athens for a municipal facility.

(Churches, Etc. • Industry & Commerce • Fraternal or Sororal Organizations • Architecture) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Ecological Restoration

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Buffalo, New York.
Ship Canal Commons is a unique waterfront park that was envisioned by the City of Buffalo, County of Erie, NYS Department of Environmental Conservation (NYSDEC) and Buffalo Urban Development Corporation to be a distinct ecological restoration and environmental remediation project. The goal was to create an urban waterfront green space that would support fish, plants, and wildlife on a natural setting while encouraging passive recreation use.

NYSDEC and the engineering firm Arcadis combined to create an aquatic habitat plan that made the ecological restoration a reality. The plan includes a canal berm which supports the northern and eastern canal walls, while creating a shallow water fish habitat and tiered benches for aquatic plant species. Underwater fish habitat structures have been installed, including submersed willow trees. Benthic substance materials were placed on the canal floor to enhance the growth of aquatic micro-organisms and stabilize the eco-system.

A unique component of the environmental remediation was the placement of geotextile fabric over the sediment on the canal floor. This was accomplished by sewing a piece of fabric together, 2000 feet long by 200 feet wide, and then sinking it to the bottom of the canal. One foot of clean stone was then deposited on top of the fabric over the entire bottom. In the northeastern corner of the canal, where the canal wall had deteriorated down to the wood cribbing, an embayment area (or wetland) has been created that replicates the ecological condition that existed throughout the Union Ship Canal area before the industrial era. Twenty-six (26) different native, aquatic plant species were placed in the canal to support fish and other aquatic organisms, including Pickerel Weed, Yellow Pond Lily, Swamp Loosestrife, Arrowhead, and Sago Pondweed. Fish that are frequent to the canal include smallmouth bass and perch.

While the Union Ship canal is not a natural body of water, it has become an important location for aquatic habitat, given its direct link to Lake Erie. The ecological restoration components enhance the transformation of the canal toward a more natural waterway, which has taken place since the end of its commercial activity in the late 1980s.

Photo key:
1) Tug pulling geotextile fabric cover.
2) Aquatic Habitat Plan and Details.
3) Installation of Benthic Subtrate material (the sediment layer where an organism grows or is attached.
4) Canal clean-up.

(Environment) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Cecil E. A. Rawle

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, Dominica.

Dominica
Cecil E. A. Rawle
1891-1938
Faithfully he strove for
progress in Dominica and
for
West Indian Unity

(Politics • Patriots & Patriotism) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

"Freedom With Honor"

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Council Bluffs, Iowa.

[Veteran Rolls of Honor]

(War, World II • War, Korean • War, Vietnam • Patriots & Patriotism) Includes location, directions, 7 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Glory to the French from Dominica

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, Dominica.

Glory
to the French
who lost their lives
in the years of resistance
1941-1945
Honneur
aux Francais tombes
dans la resistance

(War, World II) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

World Wars Memorial

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, Dominica.

Dominica
In memory of those from
Dominica who gave their lives
in the Great War 1914-1918

Capt. A. E. Anderson · Capt. C. M. Blandy · Major Geo. W. Carew · Capt. G. Carter · Capt. C. H. Hill · Lieut. H. T. S. Johns · Lieut. F. Johnson · Capt. R. L. Knubley M. C. · Lt. Com. D. R. Mason R.N.R. · 2nd Lt. R. V. Hazard · Major L. P. Storr · Capt. T. S. Noel Simmons · Capt. C. R. Wilson · British West Indies Regiment · Pvte. J. R. Bartt · Pvte. C. S. Bascus · Pvte. V. Drake · Pvte. C. Henry · Pvte. G. Honore · Pvte. T. James · Pvte. H. Lewis · Pvte. D. Patrice · Pvte. E. A. Peters · Sergt. F. C. Sully · Pvte. T. Willie

Dominica
In memory of those from
Dominica who gave their lives
in the World Wars 1939-1945.

Osmund St. Clair Alleyne · Harold Cherberd Bryant, D.F.C. · Basil Thornton Cookman · Francis Joseph Davenport · Lacombe Alphonsus McCoy

(War, World I • War, World II) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Grenville M. Dodge

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Council Bluffs, Iowa.

Pioneer Legislator and Patriot
U. S. Army General and Distinguished
Civil and Military Engineer

(War, US Civil • Railroads & Streetcars • Patriots & Patriotism • Wars, US Indian) Includes location, directions, 3 photos, GPS coordinates, map.

Sir William Arthur Lewis

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, Saint Lucia.

Born in St Lucia January 23, 1915
Nobel Prize
for Economics - 1979
"A country without the Arts
is a cultural desert"
1971 Graduation Address,
U.W.I. Cave Hill
Died June 15, 1991.

(Notable Persons) Includes location, directions, 2 photos, GPS coordinates, map.
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